1934 Ford Sedan Delivery

D

deuceflathead

Junior Member
Fellas
I am working on a very original 34 Sedan Delivery. I intend to convert to juice brakes and install a 59 AB for drivability but keep everything else original including paint. Will I devalue this car in doing so?
Any thoughts
 
'Value' is very subjective. To maintain it's value, I'm of the opinion that you should keep it as original as possible. "Drivability"? Original '34's as Henry built them have excellent drivability. When maintained properly, the original engine and mechanical brakes work just as good as what you are planing to do to the car, so why do it? You'll save time an money by keeping it as original as possible. Post a picture of the car....
 
I love the "drivability" statement like your gonna drive it everyday to work and shopping. If I had a $1 for every time I have heard that statement THEN "NEVER" see any of the cars "Being Driven", I could easily give you $100,000 for your car site unseen. AND as IF the cars weren't "Drivable" when they were built originally!! AND if it IS as "Original" as you say then why ruin that originality cause they are only that way once??? JMO
 
As long as any modification made are easily reversed what difference does it make? Not sure what all the concern is with modifications/upgrades that do not damage the original vehicle.
 
Where you drive, what speed you drive and that types of roads (and other cars) is worth pondering. On my 32 Cabriolet, I rebuilt the original mechanical brakes - which were in great shape to start with. The brakes were just fine for what they were originally designed to do - but they are not fine for what I had intentions to do.

It is one thing to drive the car around on the less populated roads around my house - no problem stopping the car at 55 mph . . . at least once anyway. When things got dicey is when I then wanted to take my car on the freeway (which didn't exist in 32). Driving that same car at 70 mph, with a fair amount of traffic and knowing that I truly needed better brakes - was stressful and frankly added more danger to the situation. So, I just switched everything over to new Bendix style hydraulic brakes, new drums and a complete and very well engineered system from Dennis Lacy. (His work is fantastic!)

I invested a lot of money in the completely new brake system - and it is worth every penny I put into it. Having a very original car that is already at a huge safety disadvantage (compared to modern vehicles) AND wanting to take it on our freeway and interstate systems and keep up with traffic (safely) is something to think about.

And - the complete new system is a 100% bolt-on affair. I didn't drill a single hole in my original frame - front to back. All original parts will be saved in case somebody in the future wants to go back to stock . . .
 
As far as driving it goes: I just took the car out to the HotRod Hillclimb in CO. With a completely new/rebuilt front end, new rear end, new springs, shocks, etc - all new brakes - took it up to 13,000 feet on some steep, narrow and very tight roads - many of them un-paved. We did a 70 mile 'reliability run' - heck of a maiden voyage you might say. At the end of the event, drove the car the 40 miles or so on Interstate 70 - at 75 mph back to Denver.

Yes I like to drive the car, but it makes one feel a lot better knowing that I have the newly rebuilt components in it and brakes that are much better than what came on the car. Frankly, I would not have driven it where I did with the stock brakes . . .

Changes: I will be removing the 32 shocks -- not sure what I'm going to replace them with - have gone through 8 rebuilt ones and am not happy with the results. That will be another 'upgrade' . . .
 
Thanks everyone.
Right now my plan is to make those modifications. The only permeant modification is that I need to shorten the driveshaft and torque tube. I am using original pedal assembly with no frame modification. Ill save all parts except I do not have original motor and trans.
Keeping original springs with stock height. I am going to install a passenger seat. Original color is school bus( commercial) yellow with black fenders.
Please lets keep the discussion going
 
deuceflathead said:
Thanks everyone.
Right now my plan is to make those modifications. The only permeant modification is that I need to shorten the driveshaft and torque tube. I am using original pedal assembly with no frame modification. Ill save all parts except I do not have original motor and trans.
.
Please lets keep the discussion going
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I'm really curious as to the reason you feel the need to shorten the drive shaft and torque tube. You mentioned that you don't have original engine and trans. What type engine and trans are you planning on running? DD
 
If what you have is in good condition, brakes and so on, they can be made as good as hyd with floaters. A 34 sedan delivery is a rare car which increases the original condition value. You can easily make the hair stand up on someone with a good running 221" 85hp. A 36LB engine looks just like the 34 engine except to one of us that look deeper. I have a 32 with a stock 34/5 85 in it and floater brakes that drives safe and comfortable at speeds of 55 to 60 on the highway.
 
When it comes to "driveability", every sedan delivery I ever drove had serious rear vision problems.
 
To V8coopman
I had intended to install 59AB.
This car was well driven with all brake parts well worn as well as spring shackles. My thought was if I had to rebuild and find replacements for components that are worn badly why not go with hydraulic brakes.
after this discussion I am having second thoughts.
Just a note, I do drive my cars. I have a 1941 pickup that I have put almost 6,000 miles on it over the last year and a half
 
deuceflathead said:
To V8coopman
I had intended to install 59AB.
This car was well driven with all brake parts well worn as well as spring shackles. My thought was if I had to rebuild and find replacements for components that are worn badly why not go with hydraulic brakes.
after this discussion I am having second thoughts.
Click to expand...


Not sure why you're having second thoughts. A 59AB is a natural replacement engine in a '34, and if you use a '32-'48 transmission, there is absolutely no need to shorten your drive shaft/torque tube. The only POSSIBLE problem with a '33 or '34 d-shaft and t-tube lengthwise would be if the car originally had a 4-cylinder engine. There were 4-cyl t-tube/shaft lengths (in '33-'34), and there were V8 pieces which were approximately 1.5" different in length....nothing that can't be corrected with the proper variety of stock Ford tube and shaft. And, using MT Products Bendix-type brakes will make that delivery one sweet car to drive at today's highway speeds. You don't have to cut ANYTHING, or drill one hole for the above mods. That thing's probably worth more (TODAY) in useable, hi-way drivable condition than a total stocker that you're afraid it won't stop in today's traffic. Good luck! DD
 
FlatheadTed said:
A 34 shares most of the brake parts on the backing plates with a Model A ,there plenty at the venders
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It costs $2,000 to have Model A mechanical brakes restored to like new by Snyders. Had two sets done. Makes a Model A stop on a dime. Can't imagine 34 would be any less.
 
deuceflathead said:
I was using a 8ba as a mock up. Is it longer than 59ab
Click to expand...

With the half bellhousing the blocks are the same length. The difference is the front bolt-ons. You will need the motor mount adapters to get the correct height and side-to-side spacing.
 

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