1934 Ford frame question...

OoltewahSpeedShop

OoltewahSpeedShop

Member
How much difference is there in a '34 car and truck frame? Will a car frame work under a truck with fenders? I'm sure a fenderless truck would be fine with a car frame, but I want to use fenders.

Still learning the '32-34 stuff.

Kevin
Ooltewah Speed Shop
 
A 34 Frame will work, the truck holes are on the inner K member ,eg the hood hold downs two holes you just drill through these ..You would need to weld up the 3holes were the car running boards mount,Maybe drill for the fenders just above the running board .
 
You will also have to "finish" the frame sides under the cab which are exposed on a truck, just like 32 cars and trucks.
 
Some of the holes on the top of the pu frame are in a different place and there are additional holes for the front hood hooks, center hood side brace and the mounting holes for the cowl. The truck frame has running board holes on the bottom and less side holes. They don't have the holes for the inner fender panels, running board braces in the side and some holes for the fenders are a little bit different.The shop that makes my repro rails makes a different set for cars and trucks. I have sold quite a few of his pu rails and always get good feed back as to the fit of the sheet metal, same thing with the car rails.
 
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As I posted previously/way back on this subject, I once had both types of bare
frames and laid them side-by-side and circled the holes on each that were not
present on the other. Seems like it was about 50 that were different? As posted, the commercial frame has some of the holes in the INNER rails at the front that are not in the OUTER rails, and the holes in the X rails for the passenger floor screws are present in the commercial, but do not have the captive nuts. I presently again have one of each frame available for photos or measurements if needed. The commercial frame is from my 33 Panel; don't know if the frame for a pickup has any differences?
 
Check our frame diagram at http://www.wescottsauto.com -- tech -- frame diagrams. The hole layout on the RH rail (drawing top) is for commercial, the LH is for passenger. The side layout is for passenger.

Not all the holes are documented (Richard EV8G) seems to be the expert, but it should help with a general idea.
 
Karl Wescott said:
Check our frame diagram at http://www.wescottsauto.com -- tech -- frame diagrams. The hole layout on the RH rail (drawing top) is for commercial, the LH is for passenger. The side layout is for passenger.

Not all the holes are documented (Richard EV8G) seems to be the expert, but it should help with a general idea.
Click to expand...


...not really an expert; just experienced, having owned several 33-34's over many years, and still do... maybe just OLD but can still remember "some" stuff :) but thanks anyway...
 
Thanks, I always wondered what the difference between the frames were. Looks like a few holes are different, but the shape is the same. Am I looking at it right? Looks like a car frame will fit perfectly under a truck with a few holes drilled or filled.


Karl Wescott said:
Check our frame diagram at http://www.wescottsauto.com -- tech -- frame diagrams. The hole layout on the RH rail (drawing top) is for commercial, the LH is for passenger. The side layout is for passenger.

Not all the holes are documented (Richard EV8G) seems to be the expert, but it should help with a general idea.
Click to expand...
 
Great question and info. I have been trying to research this myself. I picked up a very nice, no rust, key in the ignition, 34 truck project last weekend. Former big truck that someone very carefully removed all the sheet metal and got rid of the chassis. I got EVERYTHING related to the cab, nose, fenders and lights, even a title. If it where bolted down you could drive it. The truck sat at the swap meet in Monroe WA all day last weekend with crowds around it but nobody would bite on the asking price, made a good offer and I guess now I'm looking for a nice commercial frame. I already had a 33/34 pu bed stacked up in my shop that is very decent and my Father has a nice Y block sitting on an engine stand. Jason...
 
Jason M. said:
Great question and info. I have been trying to research this myself. I picked up a very nice, no rust, key in the ignition, 34 truck project last weekend. Former big truck that someone very carefully removed all the sheet metal and got rid of the chassis. I got EVERYTHING related to the cab, nose, fenders and lights, even a title. If it where bolted down you could drive it. The truck sat at the swap meet in Monroe WA all day last weekend with crowds around it but nobody would bite on the asking price, made a good offer and I guess now I'm looking for a nice commercial frame. I already had a 33/34 pu bed stacked up in my shop that is very decent and my Father has a nice Y block sitting on an engine stand. Jason...
Click to expand...

Whenever I utter the word(s) "Y Block" in the presence of others, it
is met with extreme negativity. I had a shot at a good running Merc
292 (?) a few years back, and even went and bought an adaptor to
an early Ford trans, but then was not able to get it - so the adaptor is available. Some of the same guys who deplore SBC's are also down on Y-Blocks, which are not anywhere near as common, maybe
for a good reason???
 
not sure why anyone would be down on a y-block. they certainly aren't the easiest and cheapest to get speed from. but boy, they sounds amazing, and run great if you take care of them. the 239 in my 54 is rebuilt with a little extra oomph, and runs great. no problems. i have a built 312 to go in it and i expect the same from that motor. it's bored .030 over to 317ci and will run with a t-bird 4bbl carb and manifold and tests at about 275 horse. i'm also putting a 292 in my 34, using the truck motor mount up front, and a front sump pan which should allow me to keep the wishbones unsplit. i am not an engine expert by any means. and if i can figure out how to keep a y-block happy, i think anyone can. it's all just a matter of what you like...
 
As others have indicated, it's definitely doable. I put a 34 pickup body on to a 34 car frame but as it was about 15 years ago I'm a bit hazy on the detail. This was a full fendered truck. I do remember having to drill new holes for the well deck, but I was surprised as to how many holes did line up, especially for the cab. You will end up with unwanted holes along the outer frame rail just above the running board, but they can be filled. I no longer have the pickup but it is still on the road and is owned by a friend.
John
 
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