1933 phaeton top irons

L

luvel

Junior Member
Hi, I'm building a 1933 phaeton with parts from here and there and right now i'm doing the top and for some reason i can't explain, the header is two and a half inches forward of the windshield posts. I've been thinking if maybe australian phaetons seem to be a little bet longer than the ones made in America because they have a wider door pillar and maybe their top irons are longer too or maybe the their windshield posts are a little bet more slanted to compensate and i'm using australian windshield posts in an american body. If some body have any experience on this, i'll appresiate any help. thank you
 

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Are your top irons from Australia?


The Australian bodies have the same length from the firewall to the back of the rear doors as they share the same 112" wheelbase. (Which means that the wider B pillar is compensated for by narrower doors.) What is critical is the distance between where the top irons are attached to the top of the quarter panels and the top of the windshield post. Whether that measurement is the same requires a side-by-side comparison of the two types of bodies, but I strongly suspect that they are the same in that regard. In other words, perhaps the source of your problem lies elsewhere.
 
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North American standard phaeton top irons were painted black and the deluxe versions were chrome plated, but they were otherwise identical. I understand that all Australian '33-'34 phaeton top irons were painted.
 
I just measured my 33 std phaeton, black painted top bows as David stated. Since I am doing this by myself, I hooked a tape on the cast bracket that holds the top to the rear quarter (maybe 1/2" behind the center line of the bolt) and it is 65 1/2" to the center of the post on the top of the ws post where it goes into the header. This is an original car with the original rock hard top. (pictures in my public album area)
 
I just meassured my car the same way and got the same results; could it be that a third party made the top irons for Ford and some oder makes and that i have some oder car's top irons even though they look very similar?
 
Are you building a 100 pt concourse restoration or a driver? I'd shorten the irons build the top and go down the road.
 
I thought that too but i'm going to check the ws posts position to see if i can get 1/4" or 1/2" at the top horn and the position of the 4th bow and it'll be ok. i re read the instructions sheet from Lebaron and it says to position the 14-1/2" long wood pieces well at the sides of the body former and i was doing it close to the middle and that gives me almost an inch there too. thank you all guys, you have been a great help. i'll post some pictures when done.
 
The photos below may be of some help in giving you an idea of how the irons and bows end up being positioned. The first is from Ford's archives of a finished '33 phaeton body as built by Murray, Ford's supplier of open car bodies. The second is of a restored car known to have the correct top configuration; it happens to be a standard '33 phaeton.


It turns out that I cannot upload the archives photo. If you would like it, please provide your e-mail address to me at: walmer111@aol.com
 

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You want to be careful changing the position of your windshield posts, yours looks to be at the correct angle and trying to stand them up straighter would make things looks strange. The windshield angle is critical to the appearance of the car
 
I have a very early 33 phaeton. body #82 frame # 18-175xxx ( I know this is 1932 number) I am not sure how this is (any help on this) ?
now to top irons.
My 33 has a shorter front bar ( bar that attach to front header) as I remember about 1.5 in shorter. I have a new (neal gates ) top irons on the car now .( i also have my original top irons)
I had to have a new front rod made by gates. he makes irons for 33-34 phaeton. r Not sure if this helps I can measure if you need.
 
I'd be very cautious about shortening your top irons as there is no change in any of the part numbers for any of the top components (or the windshield posts, cowl top, doors, quarter panels, and rear body section) for the entirety of '33 and '34 phaeton production. Without question a different set of part numbers would have been issued for the top irons had there been a fundamental change that affected interchangeability, such as a different length.
 
I just measured my pheaton and the numbers are very close, within 1/8 inch.
Don't cut your irons, figure out where the problem with the bows is.
I had a similar problem with a '39 convert sedan that was rolled.
When I repaired the top bows the spacing was wrong and they were slightly bent.
The LeBaron Bonney instructions helped with the spacing and I was able to get height measurements from a stock convertible sedan.
Everything fit perfectly after that.
 
I have some Aust irons here if you need measurements ,I agree with David ,the body length is the same the difference is the rear door has a inch removed at the front to compensate for the centre pillar ,the angle of the posts are the same so is the mounting position at the rear 1/4 ,Ted
 
To make clear . I never said cut your irons I just was pointing out that the front bar that goes to the header on my original top irons were shorter than the ones neal gates makes. Also the lebaron top kit had to be modified to fit on my phaeton. Now that I think back when I was fitting the irons and installing top my iron mount foward the amount needed to be cut on the front. My car was all original and nothing changed as to where the irons attach to the rear body. I have seen this on one other car.
I was hoping to get a little response as to my vin # ---frame #
 
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