1933 Fuel Gauge Problem

I know this post is a little old, but I have a related question. I tested my head unit by tapping it and seeing the red fluid hold with my finger on it. How do I test the air line from the tank to the head unit? The service instructions say to use a tire pump with a KR Wilson adapter. Obviously I don't have that.

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I have both ends disconnected and I want to ensure the line is open. Lungs won't do the trick - even on a short new piece.

Tips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Apply air pressure and have a friend feel for air at the other end. You do not need special fittings to do so, just a rubber tipped air gun and steady grip. As for checking the system integrity, you'd have to hook everything up and see if the levels hold over time.

www.morrisgauge.com
 
Thanks. I cleaned out some crud from the end that goes to the gauge with some fine picks and got a reading after driving. The fluid level isn't set right so I need to top it off so that it is at -0- when disconnected. I found a needle tip for filling sports balls that only has an outlet on the tip - not the sides - so I should be able to pump some air through. I will report back my results.

Thanks Again

Matt
 
I believe that the problems your having with the King-Seely fuel gauge,is not in the gauge,but in the sender in the tank.The two lines that run from the cups have side holes that need to be real clean,so the gas will pass thur the two lines.But also just as important at the bottom of the sending unit is the round cylinder,with a small pin hole on the very bottom,this pin has to be clean.That round cylinder,after cleaning,must be free of inside scale,if not you will not get a true reading,because loose scale from inside the cylinder will continue in time to plug the small pin hole.I hope this helps.E.P.W.
 
Update:
I re-soldered the fittings on each end, filled the fluid to -0- when disconnected, and re-assembled.

After a fill-up (as much as I could with the modern Nozzles) The gauge read 3/4 and went up as I filled the tank. After 24hrs, it did drop a little, but not too bad. Maybe a little air leak somewhere?
 

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It is pertinent to have a functional sending unit. Did you follow the calibration instructional pdf previously attached? You can also start with an empty tank and set your fluid level there. Most commonly, a small air leak will cause your issue. They are difficult to trace down, but you have a good start from resoldering the end fittings.
 
morrisgauge said:
It is pertinent to have a functional sending unit. Did you follow the calibration instructional pdf previously attached? You can also start with an empty tank and set your fluid level there. Most commonly, a small air leak will cause your issue. They are difficult to trace down, but you have a good start from resoldering the end fittings.
Click to expand...

The only step I really haven't figured out is blowing the gas back through. Since this is on a truck and the tank is under the seat, there is a separate line for fuel. Since the sending unit is on the bottom of the tank, I am not able to inspect the entire unit.
 
I've just replaced the sender on mine and it works ok . However the maximum reading when full is between 3/4 and Full. It reads empty when the airline is disconnected. It doesn't have the calibrating wire in the gauge . If I put this in I'm sure that it will read full when full but it won't it also make it read above empty when empty as well ?? -Karl
 
The physics of adding the calibration wire decreases the volume of the reservoir and thus reduces the volume of air required to displace the fluid into the sight tube. Generally speaking, this increases the reading on the sight tube. Whether or not your particular gauge will be accurate at empty with the adjustment is more of an individual gauge characteristic. It is important to keep in mind that these gauges were not exactly the most accurate design to begin with. Start small with thin brass brazing rod and work your way up.

www.morrisgauge.com
 
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