1933 Fordor brakes "Spongy"

C

CTH automotive

Member
Hi folks!
You have all been such great help with all my other questions so here goes. Just finished a full chassis resto for a customer of mine. Nut and bolt, repaired , replaced, restored everything. I did a Flathead Ted energizer kit on the brakes, new Liners (non woven) turned the front drums. Could not turn the rears as they would not fit the lathe. All new hardware, even new pins on the rods.
Problem is they still feel a bit spongy, and they don't "Lock up" at 25 MPH as I have read they should. I don't have the centalizing tool I have read about, but adjusted them according to the manuals I have. The front rods are adjusted way deep into the clevis's and the adjusters on the backing plates are almost all the way in. I have tweaked and driven several times. So much so that last time after lots of braking the drums were hotter than I was comfortable with. Am I missing something or do these just need to Bed in more to be more grabby? If these were juice brakes I would describe it as I still have a bit of air somewhere in the system.
Sorry so wordy, just trying to give as much info as possible. Thanks as always! JR.
 
Flathead Ted is on this forum, look him up, he would tell you what's what.
The adjuster nearly all the way in and rods deep in the clevice don't sound good to me.
Martin.
 
I would think if the adjusters on the backing plates are almost
all the way in that the drums are over size and you may be getting
brake fade. Have you measured the drums?

Bob
 
It seems that the drums are too large, the lining on the shoes too thin
What angle are the front levers at( should angle to front)
The push rod could be worn
Where is the thrust bearing on the kingpin?---- between spindle and axle or just under top of kingpin

I bought a 34 rear for the axles, it had just been "restored" new brakes, drums turned 195 over. Only 20 percent contact,
 
HHMMM, I didn't measure the drums as they looked really thick still and I didn't have a spec to compare it to. I only remove .010 on the lathe and they cleaned up real nice. The rears can't fit the machine. The front levers did angle as Ted indicated they should. Not sure what you mean about the thrust bearing Kurt. It is between the axle and spindle. All is new too. "Push rod" ? Is that the one going through the King pin?
Just checked how free the wheels were today after they got pretty warm yesterday, and they were totally free. So I took them up another quarter turn. Will drive it again later and report back.
 
Thanks this is my E mail to JR
to jrdugas03
cleardot.gif





JR ,the spongy pedal will go with use but must be kept adjusted, do that with four wheels on the ground and by heat .With the drums being turned you lose a lot on the adjustments ,we try to put a 1/4 lining on in theses cases .You can weld up the King pin push rod and the shoe links 1/8 ,this will give you more on the adjustments. The heat should reduce with bed in ,make sure the fronts are coming on first ,back of the rears a little .Let me know you got this .Ted.
(By heat I mean feeling the drum with your hand ,)
 
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Spongy pedal is almost always due to incomplete bleeding or the the use,of silicone fluid. If you are having a problem with dragging brakes, the residual valve in the master cylinder is defective.
 
Yes, Mechanical brakes... After the last readjust they seem pretty good. They do worsen with heat, but what brakes don't. Think I have a combination of drums slightly large, and maybe a bit short push rod. Over all they are way better than they were, and hopefully will be even better when they "Bed" a bit.
Thanks for all the help everyone!! JR.
 
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