1933 Fordor 6Volt draw

C

CTH automotive

Member
I'll try to be as short as possible. You've all been very helpful in the past with this car.. My clients 33 Sedan Deluxe. 33 car 36 engine, 33 trans. I did a full chassis resto. and detail. NOTHING untouched. Repaired restored, detailed. Including a complete new wiring harness from Narraganset in RI. Added "Eclectro-tec" Directionals which Narraganset wired the harness for. as well as wiring for an elec. FP. I'm no amature, done this before, everything went together text book and ran really well and did everything it was supposed to do. Stayed here for 2 weeks before heading for the body shop for some touch up. During that time I drove it several times, working out bugs, adjusting brakes, making sure everything worked as it should. Flat bedded tto the shop on a Thurs. Went to see the car the following Tues. The car was dead. No batt. Thought someone left something on. Body shop says even after a charge, car dies in no time. Big Draw on battery(Brand newBTW). Get it back here, full 6V draw. Disconnect Cut out relay, nothing. Disc. directional control nothing. Disc. BOTH no draw. Reconnect either, draw returns. I'd condemn the relay but just disconnecting it does not kill the draw.
Sorry so long. Bashed my head against it all day and not getting what should not even be there. What the F changed just by going to the body shop! Also they are VERY trusted and would not have touched anything.
Thanks in advance!!!! JR>
I think I added some pics...?
 

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Disconect all breakswitch generator hornrelay lightswitch main harness from starter solenoid then hookup an amp meter between battery and battery cable,

If you get the draw with only starter and solenoid attached you got a bad solenoid.

Connect main harness to starter to solenoid you get the draw with all loads disconnected you got a wire shorting to ground.

Then add one load at a time until you find what draws current.
 
Hi there, I am looking at the photo of your engine and there seems to be something incorrect in the way the cut out on top of the generator has been wired. The battery cable is on the rear of the cut out but should be on the front terminal, ie radiator side. The wire coming out of the generator should be on the rear terminal of the cut out. This means battery current is going directly into the generator armature and if left on too long will burn out the gen armature and flatten the battery. Actually the cut out has been bypassed. Check it out. Good luck, Regards, Kevin.
 
Thanks for all the responses already! Will do all this AM. Kevin, in regards to the Cut out relay. I think it was like that because I was trying anything. If I did burn out the armeture why does it still charge when running? I was getting 6.4-5 Volts. That seemed good. Also why doesn't the draw go away with it disconnected? I have to have BOTH the Cut out relay, and the control bow for the directionals disconnected. Curious, I tried moving the power for the directionals to K.O. power. Didn't change anything, also tried removing the power all together. Still had to unplug the box. One other variable that shouldn't be a variable, is the H-lights and horns are off for body work. I made sure no wires were grounded. I will install today. Had too much blood in my eyes from bashing my head against my tool box yesterday!
Jetmek- Wouldn't the brake lights be on if the switch was shorted?
Flat head- Good elimination process I'll try today, but Horn relay? I wired the whole car...Don't think I have one...
 
the 33 has a floor starter switch with the batt connected put a test light on the term that goes to the starter if schould not light if the switch is sticking it will give the draw you are talking about but not enought to turn the starter i have had this proulbem with repro switches
 
Kevin is correct about the physical location of the generator wire. The cut out acts as a one way valve allowing the generator to charge the battery but not allowing the battery to discharge through the generator, when the ignition is off. With the wire on the generator side of the cut out the battery will discharge through the generator.
 
disconect the light switch just move the bail & seprate the switch see if that helps it has to be something simple there aint much to a 33 wireing system
 
I so agree Richard! Just can't figure why it was fine for weeks before it went to the body shop, now this! I think I may have had the cutout relay wired wrong. But I ran it yesterday that way and it was charging...6.5V is enough right?
I'm heading out in a bit to try all the suggestions. Just have to file my quarterly's first..ugh...FUN DAY!
Thanks everyone!!!
 
It would seem to be the horns with the generator disconnected. The yellow wire at each horn is battery, disconnect these. If you have the lights disconnected remove the light fuse also.
 
Well this is a bit tricky but if you disconnect one thing only at a time you will find the fault. Could the body shop have screwed a screw through the wiring loom somewhere ? Search all over the car at the work they have done and see if they may have caused a problem by replacing a screw with a longer than normal one. Remove the fuseholder and resistor from under the dash and check behind it. Tell you what, If you pay my air fare over to the USA, (and back home) plus costs and I will fix it for you. Regards, Kevin.
 
Wow! Great offer Kevin. I'd rather come there. Maybe the customer will pay for the car and myself to come over... However I KNOW I can fix this, just mad that I have to! lol. No issues from the body shop. The problem surfaced before they even started work, and all they did was touch up the front fenders. As Richard said this can't be this hard!
Heading out now. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for all the help!!!
JR.
 
CTH automotive said:
I so agree Richard! Just can't figure why it was fine for weeks before it went to the body shop, now this! I think I may have had the cutout relay wired wrong. But I ran it yesterday that way and it was charging...6.5V is enough right?
I'm heading out in a bit to try all the suggestions. Just have to file my quarterly's first..ugh...FUN DAY!
Thanks everyone!!!
Click to expand...

I think that is to low, should be about 7.2.

Bob
 
you said you used a morden sol what kind of replacement sol did you use was it a single wire that gets grounded to work or was it a sol with two small terms & you used the rest. by pass to the coil
 
I didn't use it, it was here when I started. The car was upgraded to a 36 engine ages ago, I just rewired what was there. It is a 2 wire 6V. There was a jumper wire installed on it from batt. side to the nearest small terminal. The starter switch was wired to the other, and to the + batt. terminal. Will not work without the jumper. I did what was earlier suggested, and disconnected everything and worked back. Also connected the h-lights and horns. The one single wire I can disconnect and lose the draw is the heavy 10 ga. wire that comes from the fuse block thru the ammeter to the solenoid. It was originally connected to the starter side of solenoid, but that doesn't make much sense. On either side I get the draw, so I'm thinking shorted solenoid?? Have one coming at 2pm. However now I questioning everything about how it(solenoid) was wired. Should the gen. wire be on the Batt. side? Should the starter switch be connected to + or- it was on the - batt. terminal...Ugh....:confused::mad:
 
I'm having a bit of a hard time following this. Is it a semi-original wiring layout? The HOT side of the battery, (-) if it's positive ground, connects to the BAT side of the starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid connects to the starter. Now you need to know what type of solenoid it is. An early Ford would use a ground to activate the solenoid, but later 12v systems use a HOT to the solenoid (you can get 6V solenoids that use a HOT to throw them). The main power wire to the Fuse Panel (Yellow) also connects to the BAT side of the solenoid. The Generator wire normally also connects to the same post of the Fuse Panel (but it could also connect to the BAT side of the solenoid with the other wire.
 
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