1933 aluminum heads

Ed Saniewski

Ed Saniewski

Well-known member
This sounds like a stupid question, but can someone tell me what kind of finish did the aluminum heads have from the factory? was it a high gloss , a dull gloss , or a flat finish? Thanks.
 
Ed Saniewski said:
This sounds like a stupid question, but can someone tell me what kind of finish did the aluminum heads have from the factory? was it a high gloss , a dull gloss , or a flat finish? Thanks.
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They were left in the raw cast aluminum "finish". No buffing / polishing, no coating of any kind.
 
As they where for 1934, 1935 & 1936
 

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Kube said:
They were left in the raw cast aluminum "finish". No buffing / polishing, no coating of any kind.
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Kube do you have a go to method to restore to original finish? I have a few different early Ford and aftermarket aluminum heads but as you know after all these years the no longer look new.
I have tried many different methods and know the look I like.
Thanks mate.
 
KiWinUS said:
Kube do you have a go to method to restore to original finish? I have a few different early Ford and aftermarket aluminum heads but as you know after all these years the no longer look new.
I have tried many different methods and know the look I like.
Thanks mate.
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I glass bead them.
 
Here are pictures of the Kearney Pattern Works (Ford Authorized) reproduction heads I purchased for my '34...As seen right out of the box...

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petehoovie said:
Here are pictures of the Kearney Pattern Works (Ford Authorized) reproduction heads I purchased for my '34...

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Very nice Pete. I too have a set of the Kearney heads I purchased used and have cleaned up very nicely without bead blasting. I have a pressure bead blaster that is totally amazing buy often make it my last resort.
 
I don't know if this applies to the Early Ford World or not, but I'll throw it out because in may be applicable. In the anal-retentive world of Corvette restoration, a bead blasted finish is not the same as it came from the factory, and as I understand it, is different enough to be easily detected. In the world of 100 point Corvette restorations, it is common the have the cleaned aluminum surface "re-skinned" to bring it back to it's original appearance. There are companies that provide this service to those who want it "just right". I believe that it also lasts quite a bit longer than a fresh blasted surface.
 
Careful not to bead blast the underside.
Here are pics of the engine I did for my '33 a few yrs ago
 

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Just for FYI and not that "anyone" asked about my post.....BUT I used Cerakote C Satin Nickle paint. After the heads were machined, I taped up the mating surface, the water pump openings as well as the spark plug threads and "carefully" bead blasted the heads. Once bead blasted, I blew them off really well with air, then wiped them down really well with denatured alcohol and cleaned them really well. THEN sprayed them with Cerakote C along with the intake manifold and the base of the fuel pump/oil fill tube stand. When I ran it on my run stand, I had an issue with the electric fuel and too much pressure and it pumped fuel all over the intake and heads....ALSO brushed the head with a somewhat greasy finger, NOT ONE issue, not one stain, not one mark left by the fuel NO OFFENSE Pete BUT (NOTE the intake staining just below the carburetor in Pete's photo's). I wiped them back down with denatured alcohol and STILL looked as new and as fresh as the day I painted them!!!! The Cerakote C has a "process" (ie temperature, pressure and distance procedure) but beyond that, very very pleased with the results
 

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rockfla said:
Just for FYI and not that "anyone" asked about my post.....BUT I used Cerakote C Satin Nickle paint. After the heads were machined, I taped up the mating surface, the water pump openings as well as the spark plug threads and "carefully" bead blasted the heads. Once bead blasted, I blew them off really well with air, then wiped them down really well with denatured alcohol and cleaned them really well. THEN sprayed them with Cerakote C along with the intake manifold and the base of the fuel pump/oil fill tube stand. When I ran it on my run stand, I had an issue with the electric fuel and too much pressure and it pumped fuel all over the intake and heads....ALSO brushed the head with a somewhat greasy finger, NOT ONE issue, not one stain, not one mark left by the fuel NO OFFENSE Pete BUT (NOTE the intake just below the carburetor in Pete's photo's). I wiped them back down with denatured alcohol and STILL looked as new and as fresh as the day I painted them!!!! The Cerakote C has a "process" (ie temperature, pressure and distance procedure) but beyond that, very very pleased with the results
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577885
 
Glass beads gives the most authentic looks if a fine grade. I use Cerakote Glacier silver as it seals the pores to prevent thumb prints, etc.
 
It is common foundry practice today to sandblast or beadblast castings to remove any residual sand that may have adhered to the casting, so as cast could be sandblasted. there is almost always some residual sand attached to the casting that has to be removed, whether by hand scraping, blasting, or vibratory beads. Bead blasting may well be 100% correct for a 1930's Ford sand cast item.


Foundry technique has become more sophisticated over the years. Most aluminum castings used by GM from the mid 1950's through the 1990's to me appear to have used a permanent steel mold which has a much finer, detailed finish than a sand casting or a sand blasted casting.
 
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