1932 steering shaft replacements.

RustyA

RustyA

Member
I need to replace the steering shaft in my 1932 unit. The one I have was out of a dock or aircraft tug and had been cut and welded.... extending the length by about a foot. I don't fool around with steering or brake stuff..."rules to live by" I make sure that stuff is safe! I'm wanting to replace the shaft and the steering wheel is not an issue as I will be using and adapter and a sprint car style wheel. Are there any other years that are close in length and will work? Its going into a 1929 Model A and is mounted at the original spot. Was thinking a 1930/31 shaft might work any ideas besides the "replace the whole unit!" ?? I'm thinking a 40-43" shaft will work.......Anyone know the distance from the steering unit bracket (at the tank) to the end of the shaft by the wheel on a 1929 Model a? There are a few questions...help me out guys....I'm brainstorming!
 

Attachments

  • DSCN8014.jpg
    DSCN8014.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 53
  • DSCN8016.jpg
    DSCN8016.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 58
The steering shaft is a piece you can modify successfully if you have adequate welding skills. Just cut it a piece out of the middle, deeply V the tube and run a good bead around it, ensuring good penetration and a nice strong weld. Make sure it is straight and spins without wobbling. Clamp it into a piece of angle iron to keep it straight. Do not grind the weld down. Others will lick the weld down and sleeve the joint with a bigger piece of tubing, which you can do if you want for peace of mind. Others may also put a piece of bar up the middle and rosette weld through the tube into the bar.

Personally I trust my welding and am happy with a deep V and a good bead.

Normal driving is fingertip light, the heaviest loads are when manouevering It's a lightweight rod, the loads in that steering shaft will be very light. You will never generate enough torque in the shaft to fail it.

You can take the opportunity to graft on an upper column with the correct fitting for the steering wheel you want to use.

Mart.

Edit: hey, this was my 1001st post!
 
You could use the 30 to 31 shaft or since its a modified car go for a f100 box for better steering ,you would need a wedge for the frame and may need to shorten the col-om ,i press my worms off then shorten the shaft and replace .
 
If you do cut and weld, the best and safest place to do it is where the shaft is enclosed by the steering column lock collar, making the cut between the two screws that attach the collar to the shaft (you'll have to drill one new hole and thread it for the one you eliminate). This assumes that the previous foot-long modification was made within a foot of the collar location.
 
So if I'm reading correctly...you guys think I would be fine as long as it's straight and welded correctly...... I'm just paranoid. I took a couple of more shots of the shaft so you guys could see where its welded. So would I be o.k. to cut and remove the section added then just weld it back up? Thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • photo(1).jpg
    photo(1).jpg
    44.2 KB · Views: 47
  • photo(2).jpg
    photo(2).jpg
    45.6 KB · Views: 47
  • photo(3).jpg
    photo(3).jpg
    55.5 KB · Views: 54
  • photo(4).jpg
    photo(4).jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 43
Thanks Gary and everyone else! I was just nervous with that High HP engine I'm running! Didn't want it to get away from me! :)
 
If it was me I would sleeve 10" like Kerk says about 15 " up from the bottom .I would be nervous about buying a car that had that done .so for resale its a consideration.
 
Okay......I'm confused. After having seen where the modification was made the opinion of everyone is to replace or to weld and sleeve the modification area?
 
Going by were your repair is you cannot weld 15" up .But as you suggest remove the added in piece then sleeve it ,so you have one weld inside then two on the sleeve
 
Got it that time! Thanks! That's what I thought you meant but, just wanted to double check. I really appreciate the response guys!
 
I believe that changing/replacing the steering shaft in these early boxes is a bit easier and quicker than welding IMO, especially if you already have a good replacement shaft in hand. Pressing the worm and shaft apart is very simple but pressing these parts back together takes some practice and patience. Changing to the f100 box is not a bad idea either. Makes steering a lot easier compared to the original boxes that have fixed sector gears.
 
It will fit the worm but the length is probably wrong. If you weld, and care about how the wheel is clocked, the keyway on the worm end goes down and the keyway for the wheel end goes up. These boxes are sloppy at best at any position except centered. You can't move the drag link to center the wheel if the wheel is not clocked right.
I have no hesitation about weld them. The street rod guys weld joints to shafts all the time. Me too!
 
The 28 to 48 Chassis Parts Catalog (green bible) has a steering shaft and worm chart on page 94. It gives over all length and length to the lock pin hole for most Fords in the year range.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top