1932 Questions for your Consideration

Zaemo

Zaemo

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Hello Ford Barn Deuce Fans ,

1) How common are the dual Fuel and Temp gauges? Are they out there or are they difficult to find? Does anyone know if the temp. would still relate to a much later flathead or would it not read accurately?

2) I am going to rebuild an original steering box I have for my roadster. One box I have has a large GEMMER on it. This is the only case I have ever seen like this although I haven't seen them all. Is this case common? I'll assume that steering boxes like some other parts were cast by Ford and other suppliers. Anyone know about this?

3) I am away from my car for another week but I am wondering how the Dash Light switch works. Is it a push pull or do you turn it like a dimmer? I didn't get the chance to investigate why it wasn't working before I left on my trip and I'm trying to figure it out in my head. I haven't had my Roadster for long!

Thanks!
Chad
 
Chad,

1) If you are willing to pay the money you could probably locate one by calling all of the major parts suppliers. Be sure to arrange your home equity loan before you call. I have seen a couple on eBay but didn't follow them since they were total junk. I haven't been looking but I haven't noticed any for several years. They should work fine with a later flat head or even a SBC since they only measure temperature.
2) Can't help you on this one.
3) The dash light switch is push pull, off/on

Charlie Stephens
 
A '32 steering gear housing marked "Gemmer" is less commonly encountered than ones not so marked, but I would call them rare. It is likely that Ford used multiple outside sources for its steering gear components, just like it did for many of the other components. I doubt if Ford itself actually manufactured any of its '32 steering gear assemblies.
 
Hi Zaemo,

On October 8, 2000 I went to the AACA Fall Swap Meet at Hershey, Pa. I ran across a vendor by the name Rudolf Faltermeier from Spartenburg, South Carolina. He had several '32 Ford Dual -Temp gauges on display. I bought on for $250.00. You won't find one on ebay for a price like that today.
 
Baxter Ford in Lawrence,KS has the restored ones from time to time.When I find 32-34's that have had the temp line cut I have been successful replacing the temp unit with the 35-39 temp unit after removing it (glass tube,with attached line)from the bracket.You can then use it with the 37-48 heads.The original units connect to a hose fitting.Those fittings are almost as hard to find as the gauge.
 
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1) They are rare and somewhat costly but not impossible to find. I never thought it practical to spent the money on one because realistically I like to know what the temp is in each side of the block. (One bank is seperate from the other bank of cylinders) That's why I run 2 temp gauges. You could run one original for one bank and another mounted somewhere else for the other bank.

2) I have seen a number of Gemmer boxes and would not consider therm rare. The only thing to watchout for on rebuilding on is this. Some of the reproduction worm gears are not cut with the keyway (to hold it on the steering shaft) in the right spot. This makes your steer wheel off to one side. Mine was bad enough that I couldn't center it without making the car turn noticably sharper to one side than the other. There are also 2 different ratios. 15:1 and 13:1. I personally like the 13:1 as I run an original size steering wheel and don't mind the extra turning effort and like the quicker steering.

Another worthwhile investment in my opion is adding 1936 needle bearing kit to the sector shaft and double seal it with modern seals. Baxtor Ford Parts is a good place to get the kit. Keep in mind that you will have to machine the sector shaft housing to o.d. (outside diameter) of the needle bearing.

Make sure your bearing and race at the bottom are in good shape and adjust as the Ford bulletins describe. I like the way mine steers.

3) The switch (as already stated) is a push pull switch. Pulls out to turn it on. There are two (if I'm remembering this correctly) wires and the switch just completes that circuit. Each wire will have the bullet ends on them. One wire comes from the power and the other goes to the lights if I remember right. Pretty simple. If it's not working make sure your getting power to it. Then see if your getting power to the other side of the switch with it pulled out. If yes the see if your getting power to the lights. If no power to the lights but you have power to the other side of the switch then it's a bad wire or bad connection on the light side. If your not getting power through the switch then you'll have to take it apart and clean the contacts.

Hope this helps and congrats on the 1932 Ford!
 
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