1932 Model B starter pull knob cable.

[37 Coupe]

So my original broke and not sure if besides the knob it was original to begin with,but it worked and looked good for awhile. My question is,it seems no one reproduces the pull cable and maybe the knob is but has anyone just used a choke cable or something similar to substitute? Would be nice to find a good original,found two on Ebay but both sellers listed as start cable/knob and picture shown is throttle or choke no
t start pull cable.

 

[Lincolnville]

I rebuilt a model b starter pull cable not too long ago and I don't recall that it was hard. I seem to recall that I had enough cable to fix two at once. Give me a day or so, and I will see if I can remember what I purchased and get back to you.

Matt

Edit:
I might have ordered; a Universal Push/Pull Choke Cable and Starter cable. I then switched out the knob and cut it to length for one of them and then on the second one I pried open the shaft with a screwdriver and replaced just the wire.

I ordered it from Amazon: "Universal Push Pull Choke Cable 63" Inner 60" Conduit (2-3/4" Travel) for 237 Rotary" - cost $10

 

[Lincolnville]

In the attached photo you can compare between an unrestored (top in 1st photo), partially restored (middle 1st photo) and everything replaced with the exception of the knob (bottom 1st photo).

 

[DavidG]

Matt,


Well done!

 

[37 Coupe]

In the attached photo you can compare between an unrestored (top in 1st photo), partially restored (middle 1st photo) and everything replaced with the exception of the knob (bottom 1st photo).

Those really look good. Years ago when you attached a new dash knob from Dennis Carpenter you only had epoxy or a similar adhesive.With all the new glues today gotta be something a lot better like Loctite or Gorilla Glue right?

 

[Lincolnville]

The order of the cables is the same. Original on top, partial repair in the middle and the replacement on the bottom.

I did not use any glue. Perhaps I should have.

For the partial repair, I did not remove the knob but rather sliced the shank open lengthwise with a Dremel metal cutoff tool, removing the old wire. At that point I could see the wire was bent at a 90 degree angle. I bent the new wire and reused the hole in the shank and then hammered the opening shut as best as I could. For better result, maybe I could weld it and then grind smooth.

The replacement cable came with a threaded end that happens to fit the knob. I don't recall that I had to shorten the thread. Now that I think about it the knob might have been a replacement.

Happy to post more pics if it will help.

 

[DavidG]

I knock off the sharp edges on the ends of the striations on the Carpenter reproduction knobs. Otherwise they are faithful to the originals.

 

[Lincolnville]

I was able to fill in the valley via a weld, so it looks much nicer. Set the MIG welder for 18-gauge steel.

 

[BoxCar Tom]

Matt, When you substituted a Choke ferrule you may have lost the actual function of a Start ferrule. I have an early 1932 Model B Start knob assembly (of course without any cable). The mount ferrule has a pin hole on one side. That pin hole holds a thin wire that serves two purposes. The thin wire fits into the groove on the shaft, exerts pressure on the shaft and locates the shaft so that it maintains the Start knob in a horizontal position. Does the Choke ferrule provide that feature?

 

[DavidG]

No, because the choke both limits the amount of air and provides a variable amount of fuel through the needle valve in the carburetor and is closed once the engine is warmed up, at which time the lettering on the knob is horizontal.