1932 installation instruction for top insert
- Thread starter NRolfes
- Start date
DavidG
Well-known member
I'll check and see if I still have a set of the LeB-B instructions which I could scan for you. In the meantime, it is a pretty straightforward job if the wood underlying the perimeter of the opening in the top is free of rot and the wood bows are in good shape.
Apply a continuous bead of sealant all along the perimeter where the tacks will be, Follow that with the layer of chicken wire (available at Tractor Supply and elsewhere) trimmed short of touching the edges of the opening in the top. Then follow that with a layer of canvas tacked to the perimeter wood and trimmed. The second coat of sealant is applied covering the heads of the tacks. Next is a layer of padding is placed on the canvas, but short of the extreme perimeter of the trimmed canvas.
Next is the outer material tacked in place working from side to side to achieve a tight fit front to back, side to side, opposite corner to opposite corner. A second set of hands can make that part of the job easier.
After the outer fabric is tacked in place and carefully trimmed, apply another bead of sealant over the path of the tack heads and the edges of the trimmed material, finish the job with the re-installation of the restored original steel channel. I recommend that you use #2 or #3 flat top countersunk screws for that job unless you are a dead eye with a tack hammer. Better yet, use screws with Robertson heads and you will avoid scratches and paint chips on your roof or channel. Once the channel is installed, apply another bead of sealant in the channel thoroughly covering the screw heads to prevent the entry of water.
Lastly insert the rubber filler strip available from Dennis Carpenter, among others. What is available is not an accurate reproduction of the original insert, but it will do.
An hour or two in sunlight will stretch the top material and remove any puckers along the edges from your tacking.
Apply a continuous bead of sealant all along the perimeter where the tacks will be, Follow that with the layer of chicken wire (available at Tractor Supply and elsewhere) trimmed short of touching the edges of the opening in the top. Then follow that with a layer of canvas tacked to the perimeter wood and trimmed. The second coat of sealant is applied covering the heads of the tacks. Next is a layer of padding is placed on the canvas, but short of the extreme perimeter of the trimmed canvas.
Next is the outer material tacked in place working from side to side to achieve a tight fit front to back, side to side, opposite corner to opposite corner. A second set of hands can make that part of the job easier.
After the outer fabric is tacked in place and carefully trimmed, apply another bead of sealant over the path of the tack heads and the edges of the trimmed material, finish the job with the re-installation of the restored original steel channel. I recommend that you use #2 or #3 flat top countersunk screws for that job unless you are a dead eye with a tack hammer. Better yet, use screws with Robertson heads and you will avoid scratches and paint chips on your roof or channel. Once the channel is installed, apply another bead of sealant in the channel thoroughly covering the screw heads to prevent the entry of water.
Lastly insert the rubber filler strip available from Dennis Carpenter, among others. What is available is not an accurate reproduction of the original insert, but it will do.
An hour or two in sunlight will stretch the top material and remove any puckers along the edges from your tacking.
Thanks David, your explanation is quite clear. I plan to install the top in the next two weeks with a friend who is quite handy as well and I think it will go well. Two quick follow up questions: 1. I looked online for the number 2 wood screws and could not find any with the Robertson head which would be perfect for the job. Can you share the brand name and where I might find them. 2. What sealer do you recommend. I looked at some on line but have no idea how good they are so any advice is welcome. Thank YOU!!!
I know it's not Henry correct, but it's water tight and looks good. It held up in a daily driver during a hail storm that many modern cars sustained more than $10k damage.
While the wood frame was out, I traced the hole onto 1/4 inch plywood from Lowes.
I put roofing tape against the tacking area to seal it before installing the wooden frame. The plywood was treated with polyurethane to seal it. I used an air nailer/stapler to tack the plywood to the ribs and around the edge. Flexible Seam Sealer was spread along the edge of the metal and spread thin with a Bondo spreader. 1/8 inch Landau foam was glued with spray contact cement on top of the plywood then the Cobra short grain was spray glued to the Landau foam and over the tacking area before being trimmed. The trimming of the vinyl was the nerve-wracking part!
Use a big headed body hammer to drive the #17 x 1 inch nails through the tacking strip and finish with a punch that fits easily into the tack strip groove.
Masking tape off both sides of the tacking strip groove. Place 3 feet of black silicone into the groove and spread the silicone flat before doing another 3 feet. Pull off masking tape before the silicone sets.
While the wood frame was out, I traced the hole onto 1/4 inch plywood from Lowes.
I put roofing tape against the tacking area to seal it before installing the wooden frame. The plywood was treated with polyurethane to seal it. I used an air nailer/stapler to tack the plywood to the ribs and around the edge. Flexible Seam Sealer was spread along the edge of the metal and spread thin with a Bondo spreader. 1/8 inch Landau foam was glued with spray contact cement on top of the plywood then the Cobra short grain was spray glued to the Landau foam and over the tacking area before being trimmed. The trimming of the vinyl was the nerve-wracking part!
Use a big headed body hammer to drive the #17 x 1 inch nails through the tacking strip and finish with a punch that fits easily into the tack strip groove.
Masking tape off both sides of the tacking strip groove. Place 3 feet of black silicone into the groove and spread the silicone flat before doing another 3 feet. Pull off masking tape before the silicone sets.
