1932 ford fuel gauge dissaembly

Yes to your first question and it will eventually come loose with the phosphoric acid bath mentioned previously (with a little help from a pair of needle nose pliers). It appears that your gauge was replaced at some point in time as the steel housing is the later service version without an oval access hole directly above the glass tube (when installed) with a little brass plug to cover the access hole (see page 5-41).
 
DavidG said:
It appears that your gauge was replaced at some point in time as the steel housing is the later service version without an oval access hole directly above the glass tube (when installed) with a little brass plug to cover the access hole (see page 5-41).
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I missed that one......
 
Getting closer. The measuring rod or whatever will move more but still won't come out. The good news is that a bike air pump will push fluid through. I will just keep working it. I have not found metal prep so I have been using acetone.
 
Any auto paint store will carry metal prep. You'll find it handy for other projects such as removing rust from fasteners and small parts, just don't put any zinc or cadmium plated items in it for more than a few seconds; die cast and aluminum items no more a few minutes
 
Seems metal prep is getting scarce. Went to Auto paint store. They knew what it was and all and they looked, then checked the computer. None of their several stores had any. Something about getting ready for new EPA rules this summer.

On the good side, I can now pour acetone in the brass tube and slowly get about a 3/8" in the glass tube. How do I know when it is clean enough?
 
Answered my own question.. today I was able to turn it over and rap the brass tube on the bench. The measuring rod and some dust crud fell out. I did a little scraping and pushed a few tubes of Acetone through with the bike pump. Glad I was smart enough to be careful where it was pointed cause it cleared out in a hurry. Now any fluid poured in the tube flows right into the glass tube. I took a picture of the "measuring rod" that was in it. 2" long and looks like a scrap piece of copper wire?

I am soaking the top in rust dissolve, then I am ready to reassemble. Not that a judge will look that close under the dash, but should I paint the metal casing to prevent rust? Or I guess a clear coat would let it look stock but prevent rust. Now to get the remnant of the vent tube out of the ferrule....
 

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I put it all back together today, except for the fluid. I assume I need to put the "Calibrating Rod" back in before I add fluid? Any suggestions as to how to make sure the air line on the car is clear? the instructions say to use a bike pump but how do you connect it to the tube?
 

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The bike pump seal is not critical use some rag or some tape around it , or just the end of the pump onto the Ferrel .The pump is to disperse any moister .The calibration rod needs to go back in .
 
Jim, You have every right to feel proud of that fuel gauge restoration! Very good. Be aware that the liquid used [tetra bromo ethane], in these gauges is, apart from being probably carcenogenic as hell, also extremely corrosive to metals, hence the reason these gauges are so hard to find in good restorable condition.
 
I have a 1932 one available it has been replaced with a dual fuel /temp gauge and it is in very good order.
 
OK, the tubing from the tank to the gauge is too short to reach now. Do I need to replace the whole tube, or can it joined (in a hidden area?). I am thinking of adding like a foot of rubber tubing in the middle under the firewall. That way I can hook up like a 3' piece of original tubing to the gas gauge, then install the gauge then hook the tubing along the frame where it won't be seen. Would this work?
 
I don't think it would work as It works on displacement ,I would recommend a 1/8 tube flared and soldered over the old one ,This has worked for me .Ted
 
I guess I would be better served running a new line all the way up. Thank any way. Is there only one kit that is sold by all? Or are some better than others?
 
jim1932 said:
I guess I would be better served running a new line all the way up. Thank any way. Is there only one kit that is sold by all? Or are some better than others?
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I bought the replacement fuel line as well as the air line. I got them from:

Restorations & Reproductions
17100 NE San Rafael
Portland, OR 97230
(503) 257-2433

Keep 4-Banging!
 
old thread, good photos. i am missing the metering rod that jim1932 shows in his photo, is it really just a hunk of copper wire i can make, or is there more to the story? thanks, skip
 
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