1932 Ford frame

E

earlyv8

Member
Greetings

I would like information regarding assembling a 32 frame using original cross members, repo rails, 59a engine, early transmission, and closed rear end. I have ordered correct rivets for assembly.

Proper for and aft attachment of the center K member can be done from frame drawings, but how do you determine if the trans mount flat on the K member is 90 degrees to the top or bottom of the frame rails? Inserting the engine and transmission would help but if using the later engine and not using the original engine front mounts could lead to improper front engine height. I have searched and seems the center line of the engine crank should be 2 1/4" below the top of frame rails.

I am planning hydraulic brakes, using original pedals, but don't like the low placement of the master cylinder, Have considered using a bell crank assembly and turning the master cylinder 90 degrees to the center line of the chassis. I want to eliminate any areas where a rock could lock up the brake linkage.

Also consider using 32 dropped front axle, original spindles, unsplit wishbone. Question, am I going to run into interference with the tie rod and wishbone? If so, how is this corrected? Dropped tie rod? Previously, I have used modified spindles reversing the tie rod to clear wishbone. I do not recall interference with pan and tie rod or frame.

Where could I acquire king pins with the 32 brake socket removed that would be adequate to support the weight of the vehicle?

I may also use a dropped 40 rear cross member if I determine using a 35-40 rear end.

This asks a lot of questions, and I would appreciate your comments.

Thanks

Jack
 
earlyv8 said:
Greetings

I would like information regarding assembling a 32 frame using original cross members, repo rails, 59a engine, early transmission, and closed rear end. I have ordered correct rivets for assembly.

Proper for and aft attachment of the center K member can be done from frame drawings, but how do you determine if the trans mount flat on the K member is 90 degrees to the top or bottom of the frame rails? Inserting the engine and transmission would help but if using the later engine and not using the original engine front mounts could lead to improper front engine height. I have searched and seems the center line of the engine crank should be 2 1/4" below the top of frame rails.

I am planning hydraulic brakes, using original pedals, but don't like the low placement of the master cylinder, Have considered using a bell crank assembly and turning the master cylinder 90 degrees to the center line of the chassis. I want to eliminate any areas where a rock could lock up the brake linkage.

Also consider using 32 dropped front axle, original spindles, unsplit wishbone. Question, am I going to run into interference with the tie rod and wishbone? If so, how is this corrected? Dropped tie rod? Previously, I have used modified spindles reversing the tie rod to clear wishbone. I do not recall interference with pan and tie rod or frame.

Where could I acquire king pins with the 32 brake socket removed that would be adequate to support the weight of the vehicle?

I may also use a dropped 40 rear cross member if I determine using a 35-40 rear end.

This asks a lot of questions, and I would appreciate your comments.

Thanks

Jack
Click to expand...

The center portion of the frame is flat on top so I would start there. Level the top of that area, either on a frame jig you have access to or at the very least two saw horses and shims. When the top is level you will want to be sure the transmission mount face of the K-member is 90° to the top of the frame and I think using a magnetic protractor will be helpful there.
If you do run into interference with the tie rod/wishbone it can be corrected either by bending the steering arms up or down and you will be bending them anyway to clear the dropped axle. If need be you could also re-ream the tapered holes to place the tie rod on the other side of the steering arms. Re-reaming the 7° holes will still provide 50% of the taper. When heating and bending the steering arms to clear the dropped axle only heat to a dull red, and I like to use a long length of pipe on the axle stub of the spindle and a pipe wrench on the arms for leverage. Let them slow cool when finished.
Dick Spadaro used to sell a nice kingpin set that was perfect for your needs, but sadly he is out of business. You might consider cutting off most of the sockets and tig welding a 1/4" thick cap on top of the k/p's. Mig or stick would be strong enough but tig would give a much cleaner appearance.
 
Thank you Fordors

I appreciate your comments. i had thought the K member should be mounted that way but I didn't want to risk mounting it incorrectly.


I have a TIG so I could weld a cap to the top. Hopefully there is enough meat on the top of the 32 kin pins to be able to put in lathe, turn to size and weld a big "washer" on the upper side that could be finished.

The axle I have is an original Mordrop heavy I have had for many years. I have never used early spindles before so they will be a new experience for me. I wanted to use them because of the upper left steering arm.

I want this to be and look old "Ford" like years ago.

Jack
 
I think the k/p's will be fine Jack. You can just remove the socket and leave the lower part that bears against the thrust bearing; that area will still be around 1 3/16" diameter and thick enough for a good weld.
I agree about the old Ford look too. I don't care for the new dropped axles and never understood the bolt on, lower steering arms; that's why real rodders own oxy/acc torches.
 
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I have the exact setup under my Tudor sedan. We used original 32 xmembers with ASC rails. The engine is an 8ba with a 39 trans/Zephyr gears. Original round flange 32 rear w/3:78 gears. Rebuilt 32 steering box adjusted PROPERLY, ( by the book.. many are not). We had a frame jig for the frame assembly. ASC rails have the three holes punched for the firewall already, we drilled all the other holes to make it look more authentic. Use a unibit to make nice round holes. Measuring from the rearmost hole we drilled the three holes for the kmember. You are right, you must have the trans mount surface straight up and down. Once that is done you can drill the holes for the bottom of the Kmember and the two arms to the side of the frame. Using the same holes on the top of the rails you can locate the front crossmember. Cross measuring every thing at least a thousand times is a must. Do the same for the rear Xmember. We had a complete mint original frame to take specific dimensions from, so that helped a great deal. We bolted the whole thing together before we riveted anything for good. As for the brakes we used a kit from Richard @ The Early V8 Garage the M/C mounts high enough to clear everything. We used 46-48 frt spindles with a Superbell 4" dropped axle and polished SS steering arms from SoCal. The Speedway S/S Tie rod has flat ends and they clear the stock wishbone. We used a S/S king pins for the year of the spindles. If you have any more questons you can PM me and I'll be glad to answer.
 
I thought this ones not a bad idea , you could make a better job of the engineering
 

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redo32

I ordered the rivets from Roy Nacewicz Enterprises. 734-654-9450

Nice guy and can offer hints on setting the rivets.

Jack
 
Before you set your K member and motor mounts in place, mock up your engine with all pulleys, fan, etc. and radiator. I ended up having to move mine rearward for fan clearance.
I subsequently also had to re-shorten my torque tube.
Live and learn:)

I also flattened a 37-40 rear crossmember and it worked very well.
 
I appreciate all the good information on the building of 32 frame. I just want simple with Ford parts as far as possible.

I do plan to use Buick drums on this build and, maybe, Armstrong shocks. The reason for this diversion is that they are on the shelf.

Are the Ford Lockheed backing plates the same front and rear except for the emergency brake part? It has been years since I drove an old Ford with these brakes.

Has anyone used 36 Ford axle housing and radius rods and exchanged 40 center and axles? The green book says the axles are the same length, but with different teeth count on the axles. Simply put, I like the looks of the 36 wishbones and integrated spring perches.

Planned to use 32 spindles, however looks like they require more adapting to the steering arms to clear the heavy Mordrop axle, and fitting the Lockheed backing plates.

Are there different speedometer gears? I recall converting a early Ford transmission to open and having a slow speedometer reading.

Thanks
Jack
 
Talk to Richard Lacey at Early V8 Garage about your brake conversion EarlyV8@aol.com
His company does brake conversion kits and he can answer all of your questions as well as take care of your parts needs.
I am doing a hydraulic brake conversion on a '35 using Lockheed backing plates. The rears bolt up perfect but the fronts needed some work to bolt on to the square back spindles. The holes in the backing plates are larger and don't line up well with the holes in the spindles. It was suggested to just simply slot the bolt holes to the large spindle hole in the center of the backing plate and bolt on. What I did was plug weld the larger holes in the backing plate and drill to the correct bolt size and location for the spindle holes. The bolt holes will still be slotted or at least very close to the backing plate center hole. This can't be avoided. You will need and adaptor ring for the front backing plates also.
Here is a pic of the backing plate after fixing the bolt holes. It shows the adaptor ring in the center hole of the backing plate.
You are right about the rears being different, they have the tubes coming out of them for the E brake cable as well as the mechanisms for applying the E brake. I can get a pic of the backs if you want, it's right at my house with wheels and hubs off.
On the '35 using stock front spindles, I had to use 40-48 hubs/drums on the fronts as the '35 hubs/drums won't go on far enough to get the spindle nut on.
The stock rear hubs/drums work fine.
Not sure what you are going to run into using Buick drums but I would test fit everything before hand. Stinks getting in the middle of it and find out you need something different..

Good luck,
Chris
 

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'46-'48 front hubs are preferred for the Buick drum conversion, and as Chris said the backing plates need some modification and a spacer ring.
Heating and bending the steering arms will be necessary with any of the early Ford spindles, but isn't that difficult. If you take your time and plan your steps they can clear everything and look as factory with no sharp, irregular bends. Even the Ackerman can be set correctly again if you desire.
 
If you're going to the '36 bells on a '40 center (assume that's what you are starting with) the bearings and races on the '36 carrier are smaller than on the '40, so you'll need to change the races in the bell, or the bearings on the carrier, or both depending on which parts you start with.
 
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