1932 Coupe Frame Question

[X38]

I've got 4 JW ones and they are all nice and straight. I bought these due to the fact that they are accurate shape wise. Everyone says the ASC ones need 'finessing' to fit a jig. I've also heard the left and rights aren't the same profile in the front half.

On the other hand the JW rails are 3/16" or so narrower between the front and rear crossmember positions to allow for mounting boxing plates corner to corner for welding, bringing the width back to 2". That kinda says compulsory boxing.

The JW rails also include a smooth c-notch for the diff in the stamping.

 

[Karl Wescott]

About the steel Ford used. Its well known that Henry became a fan of vanadium alloys during the Model T days. The business plan was something like this... we use half as much materal (that costs only 25% more, whether saving are from alloy steel or from forging rather than heavy castings) and we can actually spend less, plus a lighter car needs less brakes, motor, etc and costs still less. Model T's were a very light weight car for their day. Working smarter than harder.

How much this carried into the V8 days is questionable but there is a history of using high strength alloy steels.

 

[ctkid343w]

These may help with the frame questions. I included brake line and exhaust sites as well.


Hot rod frame prep
http://webrodder.com/article.php?AID=223&SID=60&CID=11

pete and jakes deuce chassis part 1
http://webrodder.com/article.php?AID=427&SID=25&CID=11

pete and jakes deuce chassis part 3
http://webrodder.com/article.php?AID=452&SID=25&CID=11

running brake lines fat man fabrications style
http://webrodder.com/article.php?AID=575&SID=16&CID=11

Exhaust
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1010rc_custom_exhaust_systems/index.html

Firewall
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com...d_shop_recesses_a_model_a_firewall/index.html

Box frame
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1003rc_ford_model_a_frame/index.html

Sorry but it looks like you have to copy paste the web addresses. I can't get the links to be active.

I am currently deciding if I should keep my original 34 frame or replace it. Just finished sand blasting it in the driveway. Drivers side frame rail is thin from sitting in cow manure for about ten or fifteen years.

Building a steel 34 3w rod. Owned it since 1975. Already have Heidts IFS, Pete & Jakes tube X member and rear cross member.

I am thinking that building a frame jig may cost me some time but I will end up with a better result. Never did any frame work so everything seems like a big challenge (fear of the unknown). I figure if I build the jig and try to straighten and box the frame and mess it up worse case is it cost me was some time and a few bucks for the jig material. Best case is it works. Either way I am sure to learn something (many things).

Thanks for providing feedback to questions. I learn a lot from you guys just by reading them.

 

[hop up]

The blueprint or plans off the internet are nice but measurements are off a bit from a original chassie. Were the original body will not just bolt up

Belive it or not I bought a set of the plans off ebay and was very happy with the details, had everything including the hole sizes. I think someone on here sells them or might even be the same from ebay. I think he was from the Carolinas.

Hope I didnt hijack the thread but thanks for the info on the rivet places rotorwrench