1932 Coupe Frame Question

W

WaltG

Junior Member
I am going to assemble a frame for my '32 Ford 5 Window Coupe using a pair of ASC reproduction frame rails and all 3 stock '32 Ford crossmembers. The entire frame will be riveted together like original. I know that this combination of parts has been used many times, but is their any precautions, do's/don'ts that I need to be aware of? Thank you in advance for any input provided.
 
nothing to offer but may I ask where you found the rivits at? I need to re-rivet the front crossmember back into mine, and repaire two rivits on the k-member where someone had ground them down when the car was channelled.
Thanks!
 
THis outfit can get about any kind of rivets.
http://www.hansonrivet.com/

This outfit makes kits for Ford Ts & As and probably has those that will fit the Bs.
http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/

You will have to measure for lengths & buy as required if no one has a kit for the Bs out there.

Kerby

PS: I think there is a good thread on the A board about riveting also check The Model A B Duece Garage site.
http://www.fordgarage.com/
 
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Take this with a grain of salt: Steve Dennish at Limeworks (Whittier CA) says that the steel used for the repro rails is different from the originals and doesn't seem to stand up as well in an unboxed situation.
 
As to the quality steel used in the repro rails it is definitely softer than the gennie rails. You can tell that when drilling holes.
 
Interesting to read about the softer material! Anyway, I'd say that you'd need a pair of original rails or an original complete frame to measure where all the holes for the rivets ought to be, especially the ones in the top and bottom rails that you wouldn't be able to drill using the crossmember holes as a fixture.
 
Belive it or not I bought a set of the plans off ebay and was very happy with the details, had everything including the hole sizes. I think someone on here sells them or might even be the same from ebay. I think he was from the Carolinas.

Hope I didnt hijack the thread but thanks for the info on the rivet places rotorwrench
 
It seems that most if not all of the repro stuff is of a softer material. Brookville parts are the same gauge (19) as original ford, but quite a bit softer I've found.
 
I'm no metallurgist but I wonder if repro manufacturers are using AK steels. AK stands for "aluminum killed", a trace of aluminum is added to aid in stamping, and AK wasn't available until the last couple of decades or so. It might make the tooling last longer, obviously the dies are their biggest expenditure.
 
Steel technology has made the stamping process more dependable by far than it was in the 30s. I wonder how many body and chassis parts were scrapped due to cracks or unrepairable blemishes? I've heard that even Brookville has to scrap or "scratch & dent" sell items that won't pass for quality standards. Steel also had a tendency to work harden like many metals do. The more you bang it and twist it the harder it gets. Eventually they will all have a crack somewhere due to this fatigue.

It's still hard to believe how well those $500 to $800 dollar cars from the late 20s & 30s have lasted the test of time and how well they were made for such a low per capita price.

Kerby
 
Henry always used the best quality steel available for each application. It's not hard to imagine modern companies use pretty much the same steel for everything - something that doesn't need 100 ton presses to form.

Interesting no companies have entered this thread to brag about their steel.
 
I'll say this though: the steel may not be the greatest, but I'm glad we have what we have available!
 
I would say that Henry most likely bought the best value steel of the day, ya cheapest, but at that time it was still of a better total quality than todays value steel. In the long run, softer may not be a bad thing.
 
I can speak from experience, a jig is a must. Initially I tried welding up my frame crossmembers across the rails using the concrete floor. It just scooted all around. I found it extremely frustrating because ever adjustment caused movement elsewhere. I snapped lines on the floor, welded in cross bracing attempting to keep a reference. Several days later I gave up.
Building a jig made the job so much easier. I made my jig from 6 inch angle iron and used 2 in square tube for support. I was able to square up the frame and finished in a few hours. After I got it all together I ended up pulling the motor, ****** an front end and boxing the frame. At first I only boxed a small section for the motor mounts. The weight of my flathead v8 caused the frames twist down. The frames are not very ridgid without boxing and will readily twist. I purchased my frame rails from JWGarage because they are a littly heavier than Speedway's. I am pretty pleased with the frames now that I have them boxed.
 
Thanks everyone for your input concerning the ASC Frame Rails. I had suspected that these rails were somewhat soft and may require boxing. I wanted to stay with the open rail/stock look. Does anyone know of a set of original good rails for sale or a complete original frame?
 
There is a bit of detail work that should be considered. The sides of the repo rails are flat from the beauty roll at the bottom to the top flange corner. The original rails went up at an angle for only half way and then went straight up. This leaves a noticable bend all along the side above the beauty roll. Also the cowl bolt hole has a recessed angled area on a ginnie frame and the repo's do not.
 
Hi All
I have a set of ASC rails under my 32 Tudor ( 265 SBC/39 Trans/33 rear) We riveted and welded the rivets. Welded some beacuse you cannot get to the back of them with a buck. We boxed the front of the frame to the center Xmember....made all the difference in the world. I agree..... you MUST have a jig. As far as thickness, original frames are the thinnest, ASC are slightly thicker and the JWGarage are the thickest.
 
Take a look on the HAMB and use the search function, there's at least one thread on frame jigs with lots of pics of different people's approaches, both pro and home garage.
 
I read somewhere that JWGarage are the strongest (Repro)unboxed.

I have only used ASC , and they are soft....

I would like to try JW one day.

Michael
 
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