Compared to the model years that follow, the front end of '32 is relatively straight forward as the front fenders do not mate up directly with anything attached to the body. I'm sure that others have their preferred sequence, but I mount the radiator and radiator shell once the body is in position with the door fits as desired and then measure the openings for the hood tops and hood sides are exactly the same on both sides. (It is an interesting coincidence that the original hood hinge stainless steel molding is exactly 32 inches long.) I attach both front fenders (the rear fenders and running boards have been attached earlier) without anything more than finger tightening all the fender and running board fasteners, the head lamp bar, and if it is a V8, making sure that the center of the V8 emblem on the headlamp bar lines up with the center bars of the grill. Then I tighten the fasteners alternating from side to side starting with the rear fenders and frame horn covers at the rear of the frame.
If you do not have the original hard core hood lacing, you may have to shore up the soft core lacing on the cowl to obtain good alignment between the moldings on the hood sides and the body belt rail starting at the front of the cowl.
Also, likely you already know that the last two body to frame attachments have hard rubber pads between the body and chassis frame with the forward of the two 1/8" thick and the rearward one 1/4" thick (and no webbing).
Further, to prevent metal fatigue and eventual cracking of the sheet metal in the area where the lower back panel joins the quarter panels, Ford substituted a longer bolt and spring (similar to the radiator-to-frame attachment) on certain body types (one of which was standard coupes like yours) for the carriage bolt for the rearmost-attachment.
I've added Ford's illustration of the modified rearmost attachment.