1932 BB Dump
- Thread starter Redpond2
- Start date
sugarmaker
Well-known member
Redpond2,
Your picture at the gas station had a sign for 31E. There are several places where that road number appears. But the trucks at the gas station do not have front licence plates. Which narrowed it to KY. You can't hide!
Looking forward to talking with you about your truck. Please do not think I am a 32 expert. I just own this old truck similar to yours. They are unique for sure. Learning about them every day.
Took mine to the local hardware store and for a ride at sunset.
Really like the experience. Just not a long distance machine.
Are you near Bowling Green?
Regards,
Chris
Your picture at the gas station had a sign for 31E. There are several places where that road number appears. But the trucks at the gas station do not have front licence plates. Which narrowed it to KY. You can't hide!
Looking forward to talking with you about your truck. Please do not think I am a 32 expert. I just own this old truck similar to yours. They are unique for sure. Learning about them every day.
Took mine to the local hardware store and for a ride at sunset.
Really like the experience. Just not a long distance machine.
Are you near Bowling Green?
Regards,
Chris
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Dick Webber
Senior Member
Well I am Grandpa to Redpond2. I am a preservationist, Owner of Fords from T to Pinto, and a 61 year Model A owner. I was so pleased with his interest in this truck, and in its preservation. It is truly a rare find. I am also pleased with your interest and support in his project. Believe me, I know how important it is. So thank you all for your help. I haven’t been in the Barn for awhile, but I’ll be back for sure. I even got the first ride in the truck as he pushed it up a steep hill into his garage with a Bobcat.
As I write this I’m even wearing a Ford Barn shirt! Great to be back. This is an exciting (and very big) project. Thank you!
As I write this I’m even wearing a Ford Barn shirt! Great to be back. This is an exciting (and very big) project. Thank you!
Redpond2
Member
Yessir, in the heart of bowling green actually! Mine is at a standstill at the moment while parts/literature show up. Working on my post count to send you and David PM’s.
Been soaking parts in PB and doing light cleaning and disassembly in preparation.
Glad to hear it’s out and about on the road, I’m at your first drives with the leak that went away in your saga.
Redpond2
Member
Short to-do list:
-Get the brakes opened up to inspect
-clean the gas tank and free up fuel shutoff
-get wiring harness ordered and ran
-reassemble engine with new gasket kit
-get top plate of trans off to inspect
No new pictures at the moment, hoping to have this truck under its own power in a few weeks. Then starts to sourcing of all the tidbits I’m missing and getting it back together as a comfortable runner
-Get the brakes opened up to inspect
-clean the gas tank and free up fuel shutoff
-get wiring harness ordered and ran
-reassemble engine with new gasket kit
-get top plate of trans off to inspect
No new pictures at the moment, hoping to have this truck under its own power in a few weeks. Then starts to sourcing of all the tidbits I’m missing and getting it back together as a comfortable runner
DavidG
Well-known member
Please be aware that there is a distinct difference between early and late production four-cylinder wiring harnesses, both for the lighting/horn harness and the engine compartment/instrument panel harness. I raise this subject given that your engine number is sort of mid-year production and the best reproduction wiring source (Rhode Island Wiring) for '32 fours (in my opinion) has a current lead time of about four months.
Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column.
I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.
Check on the inside of the left 'leg' of the instrument panel (between the panel and the inside of the firewall) to see if there is a fuse block present and if there is a switch knob marked 'dash light' on the lower center of the instrument panel or not. That information will dictate which lighting/horn wiring harness you need. Then check your starter motor to see if it uses a switch mounted directly on the starter motor or if there is just a threaded terminal stud for a connection with a cable from the switch mounted on the bottom of the back of the steering gear box. The former switch set up is operated by a steel cable running through the firewall into the left side of the steering column support bracket attached to the dash with a knob marked 'start' (surprise, surprise). The latter switch set up is operated by a rod through the #1 floor board with a mushroom-shaped end directly below the steering column.
I should have also noted that the starter motor/switch configuration directly affects which cable was used from the battery to the starter switch and whether or not there is a second short cable between the starter motor and the steering column-mounted switch in the later configuration.
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51504bat
Well-known member
A couple of thoughts. First instead of PB Blaster try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Second, given the lead time quoted for Rhode Island Wiring you might want to check out YandZ wiring. Quality original wiring and the around might be less if you you're in a hurry. JMO
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
51504bat
Well-known member
sugarmaker
Well-known member
Redpond2,
You have a good plan. Very nice that you have your grandfather to look over your shoulder too!
I have traveled to Bowling Green several times. We stayed there when we went to visit Michael at Third Gen.
When I was working the company would send me and others to the manufacturer plant in Bowling Green.
Good meals at Rafferty's!
You have a better chance than me to get your truck running. My engine #1, was very tired. Engine #2 was similar. So I had the brakes and seats refurbed, while the engine was made ready.
Lots of moves, lots of learning, lots of fun!
Regards,
Chris
You have a good plan. Very nice that you have your grandfather to look over your shoulder too!
I have traveled to Bowling Green several times. We stayed there when we went to visit Michael at Third Gen.
When I was working the company would send me and others to the manufacturer plant in Bowling Green.
Good meals at Rafferty's!
You have a better chance than me to get your truck running. My engine #1, was very tired. Engine #2 was similar. So I had the brakes and seats refurbed, while the engine was made ready.
Lots of moves, lots of learning, lots of fun!
Regards,
Chris
petehoovie
Well-known member
Make it look like these > https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=1932+Ford+dump+truck&atb=v323-5&iax=images&ia=images
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Redpond2
Member
I do appear to have a dash light tucked up center of the dash behind gauge panel and a switch at center bottom of gauge panel (no legible markings but based on your description that is what it would be for) I am not seeing a fuse block, however.
The starter motor has the switch directly on top of it. There appears to be a couple empty spots on the dash that could be for a "start" switch. There is an aftermarket universal ignition switch wire in hanging loose at the moment.
no short cable between starter and steering column-mounted switch, but I don't really trust that as it appears there has been a bunch of cutting and slapping stuff in over the years to get it running.
I do have the bell shaped rotary switch for the lights (proper name is evading me) at the end of the steering column but I am not sure that is what your referring to.
hopefully some pics showing what I have and what is potentially missing will clarify..
Attachments
Redpond2
Member
I have been here all, but about a year, of my life. If we have anything its, plenty of corvettes, and plenty of restaurants.
If you come through town again, and like raffertys, I would recommend Pub or Novo. both top notch eateries.
on the "getting the truck running" I think what will slow it down the most is my lack of parts knowledge, and time of course with a full time job and a young child at home. I will admit I've been put in a great starting position with this engines condition. shouldn't take too long as long as parts availability doesn't bite me in the butt.
still lots of learning to do.
Redpond2
Member
I have 50/50 on the engine components, figured with how exposed/corroded the lugnuts/studs/brake linkage is PB would be better at busting them free. I haven't used 50/50 before this project, it was recommended for the engine components to free them up. better than PB on the real crusty areas too?
If we can figure out what wiring I need and that is what YandZ offers then I will, by all means, give them a call.
the only thing hurrying me, is myself. I have an itch to scratch and that includes driving this truck to the courthouse for its title inspection..
51504bat
Well-known member
I've had better luck with the 50/50 mix but as the saying goes, "your results may vary" As far as the wiring differences that David G referenced, if I see Gene from YnZ at the swap meet on Saturday I'll ask him.
sugarmaker
Well-known member
Redpond2,
We will keep you busy just answering questions and posting pictures! Your engine compartment is way too clean! Just joking that is a good thing. If you find a nos starter knob and cable get one for me.
Don't rush too much! Parts could be a issue, but lots of folks watching you and your truck. Really happy that your working on this. Keep life in perspective. It's a little easier for some of us older retired folks.
BTW good pictures!
Regards,
Chris
We will keep you busy just answering questions and posting pictures! Your engine compartment is way too clean! Just joking that is a good thing. If you find a nos starter knob and cable get one for me.
Don't rush too much! Parts could be a issue, but lots of folks watching you and your truck. Really happy that your working on this. Keep life in perspective. It's a little easier for some of us older retired folks.
BTW good pictures!
Regards,
Chris
rockfla
Well-known member
David
Just read the post and a good thing I read all the way to the bottom, I was fixing to PM you for a "Lesson". Yes that Blue/black is very sharp with the pinstripe!!