1931 Tudor restoration

Marklambert61

Marklambert61

Member
Team,

Kind of a newbie to Model A restoration and just getting started on my 31 Tudor.

I plan to take the body off the frame and start from the ground up as with most car restoration.

Just a few question in my mind....

1. What are the pitfalls to avoid that most rookies make when restoring Model A's?

2. Are there any items I should be careful not to dammage or save because you just cant get them anymore?

3. Because I already have a trailer queen RPU I'm building this one to be a driver. Are there any modifaction I should make why restoring her to have the sweet tour car I'm looking for?

Thank you,

Mark
 
1 Taking it apart and never finishing it. Take LOTS of pictures and tag or bag everything, you
will NOT remember how it goes back together.

2 Save everything, original parts are better than repop.

3 See post 2 and 3

Bob
 
Marklambert61 said:
Team,


2. Are there any items I should be careful not to dammage or save because you just cant get them anymore?
Click to expand...

There is no need to damage ANYTHING. Keep EVERYTHING! You may buy new items and decide you are better off restoring the original counterpart. You will find at the very least you will appreciate the opportunity to compare things in the future.

As an example there have been a couple threads posted here questioning original frame to fender and shield anti-squeak webbing. I wonder how many of those folks tossed out the original years ago because "you can buy it new"? Now they want to know what is correct and why.
 
Wow I read this and cannot help but ponder different scenarios I have seen in the past. I will offer my insight:

1. What are the pitfalls to avoid that most rookies make when restoring Model A's?
I personally think the biggest one is "out-dreaming" one's capabilities. There s nothing wrong with a dream but few people can actually finish a project they undertake. The reasons can be varied but the end results are the same.

My suggestion is to be honest with yourself regarding goals & capabilities. If someone has the expertise but not the funding to complete the project, then look for creative ways to overcome this. If you have the desire but not the tools, then take care of that first. Most people really do not have a concise written plan on exactly what they are going to do and how they are goiing to accomplish it.

#2:
Contrary to popular belief, a completely restored (everything back within specification) Model-A is a very sweet Tour car. There are minor modifications that can be made to enhance driving but are not necessary. Get the car totally rebuilt back to exacting standards and see what is necessary at that point.
 
Brent's comments bring to mind something I wrote many years ago and has been on the MAFCA website:


Marco Tahtaras - February 16, 1998

​
There have been several postings from people [on the WWW Message Board] just beginning a restoration for the first time. Everyone is anxious to dig in and get'em apart (it's normal!). Some patience and planning at this point in the project can save an incredible amount time and frustration at the other end of the project.

If the car hasn't been disassembled yet, it's a golden opportunity to determine what fits and what doesn't, doors, hood, fenders, bumpers, etc. Remember, if it doesn't fit NOW, it won't fit LATER. Look more closely at everything! What doesn't seem too offensive on an unrestored car may bother you much more when the car is pretty and shiny!

It's also a good time to do any heavy body work. It's MUCH easier to do major or minor body work on a fender, etc., mounted in place than sitting on a bench. Major work will also affect fit. If all dents, patches, etc., are taken care of prior to stripping or blasting, you then will have an ideal surface for fillers or primer.

If you choose to replace fenders, fender brackets, etc., with new reproduction parts THEY WON'T FIT without modification. Attempting to install a shiny black fender bracket won't be fun when you find it needs to be heated with a torch to reshape, then repainted.

If you are not so fortunate as having the car in one piece, consider assembling as much as possible using the parts you intend to use i.e., new body mounting blocks and rubber pads. You will likely find a few surprises that are much easier to deal with at this stage. It will also help determine what parts are missing. Almost all frames have at least a sag in the right frame rail at the rear motor mount from the torque of the engine over the years. If the car is already apart deal with it now before fitting.

A little patience, planning, and effort at the front end of the project will more than pay for itself at the back end in saving time, frustration, and likely better quality.
 
insert bearings not needed if you get the babbit poured by someone who knows how.

12 volt definitely not needed.

alternator? maybe. 'specially if you're driving at night a lot.

HC head and Mitchell overdrive VERY desirable if you're driving a lot.

-my ever-so-humble opinions based on 40-50,000 highway miles driving Model As.
 
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