1931 Slant Town Sedan Braking Question

CountrySquire55

CountrySquire55

Member
Newbie here who last week just acquired a 31 Slant Town Sedan with about 7,000 miles since it was restored. Has touring engine, Mitchell overdrive, front brake floaters, alternator, tube shocks, and turn signals. Pressed steel brake drums. I have driven the car about 100 miles since I got it. Yesterday, after about a 15 mile drive at 45 mph, when coming to a stop, the front brakes vibrated violently as the car slowed through walking speed to a complete stop. This vibration/chattering continued the next three stops. Car sat for about 20 minutes and then I drove it home at about 25 to 30 mph and no vibration/chatter at any of the stops I had to make along the way. Previous owner told me he used to quirt WD-40 into the drums to silence periodic brake squeaking so I suspect, at minimum, the linings might be compromised but will know more after I inspect. Will be pulling the front drums later today to inspect. Any advice on any specific thing(s) to look for? Thanks in advance!
 
Front wheel bearing nut(s) not tightened properly.

Brake drum(s) warped or not turned true, rubbing on shoes as you drive and getting hot.
 
also check the shoes to insure correct centering, a very common oversight with A's. There are tools available to do this from most suppliers. If the tracks are worn, or were built up too high with weld to correct the wear, the shoes will be off center. Inspect the wear pattern on the shoes, it should be even across the entire lining. If the lining is only engaging partially, the remaining un engaged portion of the shoe can vibrate. excessive dust can cause it too. I cannot imagine why anyone would spray WD40 on brakes shoes unless they wanted to glide through stop signs more quickly.
 
Thanks, Pat, I will check this also. I now have a couple of tools I need to borrow from my Model A club and the centering tool will be one of them, in addition to the rear drum puller. I want to check all the brakes for safety before driving the car again.
 
Check to see if the ends of the linings are beveled, about 45 degrees. A squared shoe leading edge will chatter and make you think the car is going to shake its self apart. If not, a course hand file will take care of it in short order.
Paul
 
Oil in or on brakes is a no-no. All the advise up to now is well advised too. You may need to pull drums, spray the linings down with plenty of carb. cleaner or brake clean, something to wash out ALL the residual oil in linings. You'll need a big pan under each wheel as you wash. People used to use gasoline, but I think it's just to darn dangerous.
 
Just finished inspecting the front brakes. All four linings are completely glazed over--smooth as silk. Look also like completely impregnated with WD-40 (or some oily substance) that the previous owner had been spraying on them. I will be replacing the linings and will probably switch to cast iron drums/hubs when I do. I also expect the rear linings to look the same although I have not yet obtained the drum puller to remove the rear drums. I did not yet remove the front shoes to inspect the roller tracks but the backing plate and all other parts seem in good condition. The front wheel bearings were not loose and the bearing races all look very good. No sign of excess heat or other damage so I think the problem is the oil-impregnated linings. Now I have my task to complete! Thanks to everyone for your advice. I really appreciate it!
 
On my car it sudenly developed a severe chatter on rf brake when I tried to stop.I unhooked the front brake rods to get home .With the front end jacked up ,I spun the wheel & applied the brake by hand and found that the brake would instantly apply& release in rapid sucsession.The cause of the problem was the nut on the bottom of the spring perch.The nut was rusted tight but was not tight enough to clamp the radius rod tight to the axle.I replaced the nut as the bevel was worn & problem was fixed.
 
The brake rod balance could be off also, the rear brakes are supposed to pull before the fronts kinda opposite what modern cars do
 
Thanks to everyone for your advice. All front brake parts looked good except for the linings and the roller tracks. All the brake rods, clevis pins, etc., seem appropriately tight and no slop in the linkages. I have already relined the front shoes and am waiting for my new cast iron drums with my old hubs to arrive so I can then use our club machine to arch the shoes, replace the roller tracks (an experienced club member is going to teach me how to hot rivet) and then reassemble the front brakes. Now that I have pulled the drums/hubs off the rear, the rear brakes do not look as good as the front. Emergency brake lining was coming off the band on the left side (poor riveting job, I guess) with significant debris inside the drum and some damage to the band. It looks like both rear brakes have been overheated at some point. Two axle shims inside the right rear hub so I have more to check. At this point, I expect to do a complete rebuild of the rear brakes with all new parts, including new cast irons drums and new hubs. My winter project will now take a bit longer to complete but I want the brakes to be at 100%. I am sure I will have more questions for this forum as I proceed. Thanks again for everyone's advice and Merry Christmas!
 
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