1931 Pickup Journal

1931 flamingo said:
Try putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. I usually dump 3-4 ounces in when I add gas, usually about 6 gals just to bring it above 1/2. Won't hurt anything and may help free up a sticky valve(s). FWIW
Paul in CT
Click to expand...

Does it sound like there might be a sticky valve? When I fill it up, I'll put some in. Seems like it can only help from what I understand. Thanks.
 
Well, I gave it another go today:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ixo5xsg8ka253cd/Video Jul 16, 9 34 54 PM.mp4?dl=0

It still isn't running all that smoothly and will die after going from being under load to being in neutral. Second gear doesn't sound great. I am not sure what it should sound like. I know there will be more noise because of the straight cut gears. I tried pulling the pin to check timing, but couldn't feel it get into the little dot on the gear to indicate top dead center. Any tips on that and on anything else to get it to run better? It seems to backfire quite a bit and just in general is running pretty rough. Thanks guys!
 
I used a combination of the pin and looking in the #1 spark plug hole and watching the piston reach TDC....if you feel the pin slide in...it's pretty subtle...and see the piston at the top of the bore you are good to go...also you can just put your thumb over the spark plug hole and feel for pressure, and then confirm it visually..

For me timing was as much art as science...I set the timing on mine about four separate times and I think the next time it'll be near perfect!

http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
 
I got the spare engine up onto the stand today. My grandpa had it rebuilt in the '60s and sat in his garage without a head on it since then. I pulled the oil pan to take a loot to see if I could see why it wasn't turning over by hand with the crank. Here are a couple pics:

IMG_7557_zpsfol0430a.jpg


IMG_7560_zpscbufj64i.jpg


IMG_7561_zps15vg8oj2.jpg


There seems to be a decent bit of dust in the little bit of oil thats there. What do you guys suggest to do from here? Take everything apart, clean it all, and then reassemble? Try to lube it up and get it to spin? Thanks.
 
Hi Noah,
I dont want to offend you, but you have mentioned the choke however not a word about the GAV function.
Are you aware that by turning the choke lever you can adjust the mixture? Full clockwise will be lean, most cars will not run in this position but will be happy at about half to one turn counter clockwise.
Please don't take offence if you were aware of this little gadget.
Regards
Chris
 
Floats said:
Hi Noah,
I dont want to offend you, but you have mentioned the choke however not a word about the GAV function.
Are you aware that by turning the choke lever you can adjust the mixture? Full clockwise will be lean, most cars will not run in this position but will be happy at about half to one turn counter clockwise.
Please don't take offence if you were aware of this little gadget.
Regards
Chris
Click to expand...

Yes, I am aware. No offense taken :). Turning the knob doesn't seem to make a difference. I have a Model B carb and from what I can see, mine doesn't actually turn anything at the carb when you turn the knob in the cab. I have tried turning the place where the choke connects to the carburetor and it doesn't budge. Not sure if there is something wrong there or if the Model B carburetor is slightly different than the A.
 
Yep, I have no knowledge of the B at all and I think It might very well be different.
I found it strange the you never mentioned turning the nob before, but I realise now.
Have a great weekend.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town
 
Floats said:
Yep, I have no knowledge of the B at all and I think It might very well be different.
I found it strange the you never mentioned turning the nob before, but I realise now.
Have a great weekend.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. Hopefully someone with knowledge of the B carburetor can help. That way I know if it is supposed to be turning and just isn't or if it simply doesn't turn.
 
I took the Model A for its first test drive today. It went roughly how I expected it. I replaced all the seals inside the carburetor and the manifold gasket. It definitely seemed to help. It didn't stall when I went from revving the engine to not putting any throttle in. While driving, it backfired pretty badly under load. The radiator boiled over after about a mile when I turned around. There was a lot of dirt that came out so I guess another flush or two might be in order. Would the timing being out be enough to cause it to backfire that badly? I tried checking it myself, but I couldn't feel the pin going in on the cam gear. I am going to have a friend turn the engine while I feel for it. As for the radiator, I am planning on doing the flush with vinegar, based on what I've read, and then using distilled water with Water Wetter once it's all clean. It also still seems to be running a bit lean. A quick pull on the choke seems to help when it is about to stall. When I had the carburetor apart, I checked to see if turning the choke control valve makes any adjustment on the carb. The place that it attaches to on the carb doesn't twist at all. I guess this is the way it is on the Model B carb? Thanks.

2bf89f5d-cadf-41c8-a8be-da60184fbed5_zpst2dquxft.jpg
 
try using a stubby phillups head screw driver to feel for the timing gear detent.
On your list of things to check I would see if your intake and exhaust manifold are leaking. also the gasket between the carb and the intake.
Bob
 
Brentwood Bob said:
try using a stubby phillups head screw driver to feel for the timing gear detent.
On your list of things to check I would see if your intake and exhaust manifold are leaking. also the gasket between the carb and the intake.
Bob
Click to expand...

Bob, I just replaced those gaskets so hopefully the new ones aren't leaking. I will try the screw driver trick. Thanks!
 
I'm able to turn the engine by hand using the fan belt...that way you can feel for the detent and turn the engine....it is not much of a hole...very shallow..
 

Attachments

  • P1080632.JPG
    P1080632.JPG
    153.8 KB · Views: 87
Last edited:
1955cj5 said:
I'm able to turn the engine by hand using the fan belt...that way you can feel for the detent and turn the engine....it is not much of a hole...very shallow..
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's just hard to really focus on feeling it while turning. I can turn it not problem.
 
Take the plugs out and get someone to turn the crank. Take the cap off the dist. and when the rotor gets near the #1 contact is when you want to be ready to feel the indent. That is if it's anywhere near timed correctly:eek:

If you find the indent find Purdy Swofts method of timing.:D

Sewall Tyler
 
I got the timing set correctly with the help from another forum member. In the process, I learned that the needle that controls the air/fuel mixture was seized up. It was stuck in the leanest setting which would explain why the engine was still running lean after replacing gaskets and checking for air leaks. The engine runs a lot smoother now and I will be taking it for a test drive this weekend. The concern I have now is that the radiator is still clogged up even after flushing it. I will investigate that more this week before test driving it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I got to go for another test drive tonight. It was successful! I drove for a couple of miles and was cruising along at about 40-45 mph. It was definitely a lot of fun. I do have one a question about shifting. I was coasting down a long hill in neutral to play it safe with the engine on this first time out and then wanted to get into third gear. I could't get it to go in. It was just grinding. I tried rev matching, but maybe didn't give it enough revs. Any tips? Thanks.

https://youtu.be/UnLQyrT_RhM

IMG_8362_zpsyhcjyhel.jpg
 
Last edited:
Coasting is unsafe and illegal. You'll need some more practice to find the right engine speed for shifting. You need to rev the engine (usually more than you think) with your foot off the clutch, then push the clutch in and shift to third. If you try to go from neutral with the engine at idle at 40 MPH, then you need to rev the engine to about 2000 RPM.

Remember, as soon as you push the clutch in, the ****** input shaft will start slowing down, so it's better to slightly over rev the engine instead of under rev it.
 
Noah, if you wish, I could come out and see how you're shifting etc...I might be able to show you a few pointers..
 
I wasn't aware that is illegal. I had no problems downshifting at slower speeds, I just was afraid to rev the engine that high. I do a lot of rev matching and heel toe downshifting in my other car for autocross and track days. I have a tach on that one though! Thanks for the help guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top