1931 12 volt Model A ignition issue

J

jkwagon

Junior Member
I inherited a project from my father. A 1931 Model A Cabriolet (supposedly a highway patrol car). It had been converted to 12-volt. I'm a rookie but with some help from family friend got it running. But then it quit starting. Battery, starter, carburetor, coil all appear good.
It has a very unique looking electronic ignition, and I assume it's the culprit. Has anyone seen this style before? The ones I have used in other vehicles and seen only look much different. (see attached)
I thought about simply buying a new pertronix or FS, but I'm concerned this set up could be different.
I'm expecting 75% to say switch it back to points. :) But I would like to at least know what it is.
 
Heres a photo.
 

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Your distributor has a Nu Rex system in it .The rotor in your picture is very distinct. I have a complete set with 2 modules if you are interested. I had it in my car for a few months, worked fine , but we were going on a long tour , so I put the original points , condenser back in . My worry was if I had a problem while on the tour I may not have been able to fix it. This was 8 years ago , no issues with original distributor since.

Don S
 
Thanks Don for solving my mystery. Is the swap back to points just a new complete upper plate with condenser and points and I assume remove the 4 point rotor and add a new distributor cam?
 
Google NuRex ,a lot of information is available. Don’t buy the automatic spark advance,not needed if you use your spark advance lever
Don S
 
The ignition system starts at the ignition switch and how it's wired first. The OEM is all based on controlling the ground breaker circuit with the big electro-lock switch & armored cable. More modern changes vary from a switched power to coil to a switched ground to breaker points. Just know which you have. There are modern breaker point & condenser top plates and OEM lower plate with early type condenser and early top plate with just breaker points. Both have to have the ground feed wire from the coil ro the condenser and points but there are variations on this too if no Electro-lock switch & cable are used. A lot depends on how you want to set it up. Modern point and condenser can be just as problematic as the OEM due to poor quality replacement parts now says.

Nu-Rex is still around but I'm not sure if they still support the electronic ignition. I've never used it so I don't know how reliable it is. A&L still has the best condensers available. A 12-volt system needs either a 3-Ohm coil or a 1.5-Ohm coil with a ballast resistor so know what you have there or get a good replacement.
 
The installation doesn’t have the electro lock cable. Just 2 wires, brown and yellow plastic coated. Coil is 3 ohm. I’ll have to do a little more investigating beyond that.
I looked up nu rex and they don’t sell any electronic ignitions anymore.
Don curious about how you swapped back to points. Just a new top plate or a whole new diz?
 
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