1930 Steering column support change

Flathead

Flathead

Well-known member
When you change from the gas tank mounted support to the dash rail mounted support, what happens to the old mount under the tank? Mine is not leaking, but I don't want to wait until it does. Does the new bracket hold the column clear of the old bracket? Do you have to cut the old one off? I hope to just leave the old one in place but not clamped up.
 
I just replaced mine, the old bracket (top piece) stays put but leave about 1/8 " clearance all around it so there is no contact. I had to shim the new bracket with washers to get the correct clearance. There is a Ford Barn post that shows photos of a shim they used. It may help to loosen the steering sector on the frame and then tighten the top bracket and then tighten the bottom end last.
 
leave out the rubber and the lower half of the original and there should be about 1/8th inch clearance. I have seen some with the lower half and no rubber too, which does not contact the steering column either.
 
p Steering sup 1.jpgI will try to put a picture. hope it will work. Bill
 
I shimed it with two washers so it would not touch the old upper clamp. I put a rubber piece in the old top part just for looks. you can see it in the picture. I used two bolts that where under the dash rail. I did not Drill under the dash rail for the third bolt. I don't see where it was needed. Bill
 
That clamp will fit all 30 and 31, except the dropped column models, like the vic and 2dr phaeton. It will also fit the 28-29 if you make a shim, which is either 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch, I cant remember, and drill one hole. I did it to Barry's 29 special coupe.
 
Bill Steiner said:
pView attachment 4402I will try to put a picture. hope it will work. Bill
Click to expand...


Tony S Florida has a set of pics but has not been able to master posting pics on this forum. He has step by step photos. I went to his house a short while ago and we were only able to post pics 25% of the time.

I'm going to have to check home to see if I still have them on my home computer.

Go to Ahooga.com I see there is a thread about this same thing and Tony has posted the pics.
 
hydroshawn said:
What is the purpose of adding a secondary column drop?

Thanks
Click to expand...

When entering and exiting a model A the driver often graps the steering wheel to assist him/her into the seat. This pulling, over time, can and has loosened rivits, cracked the solder and causes gas leaks.
 
Last edited:
hydroshawn said:
Got it. Is there realy no way to fix this or is it better to leave it & go with the secondary.
Click to expand...

If the bracket is not leaking, a good way to keep it in good shape is to turn the steering wheel with both hands, so as you turn the force is straight down the steering shaft. Turning the steering wheel with one hand (as when using a suicide knob) will put side pressure on the bracket and flex the bottom of the gas tank where the bracket is riveted.

Also don't grab the steering wheel for support when getting in and out of the car.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
When entering and exiting a model A the driver often graps the steering wheel to assist him/her into the seat. This pulling, over time, can and has loosened rivits, cracked the solder and causes gas leaks.
Click to expand...

I just found a small gas leak in this particular area. I think I screwed up by adding a rubber bushing to the steering shaft. It has a very small crack on the solder. No wonder there's a strong gas odor inside the car.

What is the best fix for this? :(

Sorry, didn't mean to highjack this thread.
 
flipp said:
I just found a small gas leak in this particular area. I think I screwed up by adding a rubber bushing to the steering shaft. It has a very small crack on the solder. No wonder there's a strong gas odor inside the car.

What is the best fix for this? :(

Sorry, didn't mean to highjack this thread.
Click to expand...

BEST fix or just a fix. You will not like the BEST fix.
 
Drain the tank, clean the area around the leak, and use a heavy soldering copper or propane torch with a soldering tip to resolder the area. That's how my Tudor tank bracket was fixed many years ago and it's still leak free.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Drain the tank, clean the area around the leak, and use a heavy soldering copper or propane torch with a soldering tip to resolder the area. That's how my Tudor tank bracket was fixed many years ago and it's still leak free.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm going to find someone who can do this for me here in So Cal. Do any of you know someone who can do this type of work? I'll pay good money.

Thanks guys!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top