1930 Shut-Off Valve -- Again

H

H. L. Chauvin

Well-known member
Just one (1) experience:

1. Immediately after cleaning my 1930 gas tank some time ago with POR Marine Clean, (& after removing (2) cups of ice cream salt size rust particles mixed with fines), because the old shut-off valve was leaking, I installed a new shut-off valve with "no" in-tank screen -- big mistake "not" to provide an in-tank screen.

2. Not too long after the new shut-off valve was installed with no in-tank screen, I could "feel" grit in the shut-off valve; hence, I removed the shut-off valve, installed an in-tank screen; but, it was too late -- the damage was already done.

3. Today, I removed the new leaking shut-off valve, (the new ones have an "O" ring), whereby the inside soft brass surfaces were deeply scratched all over from hard steel rust particles traveling through this valve prior to installing the in-tank screen.

4. Definitely these deep soft brass scratches on both mating surfaces were too deep for resurfacing, even with valve grinding compound.

5. I sealed & set the in-tank screen in new shut-off valve with Teflon tape to insure a tight fit where fine particles cannot bypass the in-tank screen.

6. Many years ago, this tank was once sealed with "Permatex" tank sealer, ("Permatex" mixed with alcohol), which later got dissolved with new ethanol gas & started peeling with rust particles attached to the "Permatex" tank sealer.

7. I'll try to see if this in-tank screen can help to keep the shut-off valve from getting damaged & leaking.

8. The additional NAPA 3039 fuel filter in the glass bowl,(properly installed), keeps the carburetor very clean & free of very fine particles coming from a dirty Model A gas tank.
 
The tank on my PU must have 3/4 of and inch or rust on the bottom. I could see where it marked the old tank screen when I replace the valve in my car. The tank runs dry after only 8 or 9 gallons. I wish there was some way of sucking out the crud without removing the tank and thus botching up the paint, webbing etc.
 
Hi Brian,

My tank "was" similar to that of yours ..... as mentioned above ..... (2) full cups of rust flakes removed ... but at that time, I never measured the depth of the crud in the tank ..... when I first removed the shut-off valve the drain hole was completely plugged .... I had to insert a pencil through the crud to clear the opening.

I started with recirculation, i.e., pouring in about 1/2 gallon of gas at a time whereby crud was draining with gas ..... then pouring this same gas back in the tank after it was filtered through a piece of cotton material, like a Hanes undershirt -- lot of crud exited each time.

Next, (as mentioned in a previous post), I recirculated Marine Clean with an electric water pump for several hours whereby far more crud came out.

I can look inside the tank today & still see blotches of this "Permatex" tank sealer which will continue to fall off with pieces of hard steel rust embedded "in" the "Permatex" sealer. The hard particles of rust I see today are all black.

Even though fuel is always exiting the tank with no problem today, maybe the next thing to try is to fill up with 10% ethanol gas & allow it to dissolve all of the "Permatex" sealer in the tank.

My tank took a licking but keeps on ticking. LOL
 
I tole y'all to git a hardware store pet **** type valve for &4.99, (CHEEP!), it fits PERFECTLY in place of the original valve & NEVER leaks! AND be sure to put a pencil type filter in the top of it! DON'T use the "micro-type" filter, they're too fine & may plug up with rust "powder"!! The FINE powder doesn't ever seem to plug up jets in the carb, it just gits "sucked" through them!
I tiped this WITHOUT COFFEE, hope it makes SENSE??
Bill W.
Bill W.
 
H. L. C.
So, you did this with the tank in the car? Just sloshing it around or rinsing in out with a recirc pump and draining it through the shut-off valve hole? I may try that too. I replaced my in tank (pencil) screen when I changed out the valve a while back, so gas flows well. I just have all that crud taking up space in the bottom of my tank. Love to get it out off there.

Gotcha, Bill.
 
Hi Bill,

Yes, I did this with tank "in" car.

This Briggs 1930 Town Sedan I was told it was previously owned by (2) collectors who had stored it inside & in "heated" garage storage for about 30 years in New York -- prior to that, it supposedly was bought from a senior lady in "dry" Kansas where she always kept it in an enclosed garage; hence, never spent a night out-of-doors ..... appears possible ....... wood body is in excellent shape.

The other tank in my 1930 Coupe which I had for 54 years never had a problem in our most humid weather conditions. Why ??????????????????????

Even though the Town Sedan always stored in supposedly "dry" areas, my hunch with this particular tank is that some former owner years ago:

1. First, per written instructions, cleaned out the "not-too-dirty-tank" with soap & water, & rinsed it with clear water; &,

2. Proceeded to apply the "Permatex" sealer over an interior damp steel tank surface.

3. Then the moisture was trapped under the "Permatex" sealer which had an excellent waterproof perm rating; hence, over time, the tank started rusting with molecules of water trapped "under" the waterproof sealer.

Just a good parable to remember "if" any Model A owner is brave enough to try a tank sealer.

Just another shared Model A experience -- just hopes it helps.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top