1930 Roadster Rear Spring

28-31

28-31

Member
Hello, All:

I've run a few searches and found a couple relevant threads, but not a definitive answer...

I have a 1930 Model A Roadster (the one Flop is doing the miraculous sheet metal work on) and I'm getting close to putting it all together -- at least for the test fitting of everything.

Anyway -- I have 2 rear leaf springs: One is for a '30 Model A 5-window coupe (rumble seat, if that matters) and the other one is for a '30 Model A Tudor.

Do I have the necessary components to assemble a correct Roadster spring?

I've seen Marco's chart -- although the only versions I can find now are very low resolution and hard to read! Even with the chart, I think I need some expert advice.

I'd rather not locate an original roadster spring or buy a new reproduction roadster spring, unless it's absolutely necessary.

Thanks,

-Jeff
 
Hey Jeff, There are many threads on this subject (like most). The roadster had fewer spring leaves because it weighed less. I think it had seven leaves for the roadster and the sedans had like ten leaves, pretty stiff ride for a roadster.I think you have what you need ,clean it up good and paint the leaves ,which has also been discussed here. Good luck, your body is turning out really nice. Frank
 
Looking at Marco's most excellent chart, neither the coupe (C) or the tudor (A) are the exact equivalent of the roadster.

Note also that the roadster has a 'dummy' leaf as well - which neither C nor A have as part of the assembly - but which is short (7-1/2" long?) and is provided only to allow the clamps used on the other cars to be used with the roadster.

Given that the Coupe (B) is slightly lighter than the the Tudor (A), and that the springing seems to reflect this in that B has 8 leaves and the Tudor has 10 leaves, I might use the coupe spring and leave the next to the top leaf out. Note that the top leaf in all springs is "chamfered" to sit in its seat in the frame. This is probably worth maintaining.

Also, based on my experience with the front spring on my truck, the top (small) leaf tends to act simply as "seat" for the remainder of the spring pac. There just isn't that much spring effect in the short and comparatively stiff uppermost leaf.

Nor that much difference between the top leaf and the next one below that? Couple inches?

Hence not that much additional resiliance from the second leaf either. But your spring pac will be the correct height.

One thought. I'm sure there are more.

Joe K
 
Actually adding what Joe is saying, even the spring pack height (thickness) will be different due to the thickness variances of each different leaf. You honestly need a spring that originated out of a Roadster if you want it to be accurately correct. If close is good enough, then mix & match as others have suggested.
 
The lower spring brackets are different for the coupe and roadster and can't be used with the ten leaf sedan spring unless two spring leafs are removed. The 8 leaf coupe spring and the seven leaf roadster springs use the same lower brackets The coupe spring will fit as is but will be stiffer. You can look at the spring charts and determine which leaf to remove from the coupe spring. It will be necessary to use a short dummy leaf under the bottom if you remove a leaf from the 8 leaf coupe spring or the spacing will be wrong and you will likeky run out of threads on the U bolts before the spring will tighten up in the rear crossmember .
 
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