1930 Delima

kornbwn

kornbwn

Junior Member
Hello fellow Model A brothers & sisters . I am a newbie to the Barn & to Model A,s as well . Your knowledge is great on the first question I asked , so I thought I would ask for some advise on my new problem . i recently acquired a 1930 Coupe . I actually runs great . No missing or anything like that . But it was overheating .Im a pretty good shade tree mechanic , so I figured I would remove the radiator & get it rodded out . We have a really reputable shop here thats been in business since early 1960s . I got it serviced . In the meantime I flushed the engine block as best I could . I then installed the radiator . New hoses , etc . Put in 50 % antifreeze & 50 % distilled water . Fired it up . Ran it for about 5 min or so . Then was spitting out of the overflow. The water pump does not leak around the shaft , so I assume it is ok . I figure it doesn.t have a thermostat too . Also , the top hose is hot , bottom hose is warm . Even though it purrs like a kitten , ( & it does ) , is my last resort to split the head & clean the ports ? or am I missing sumthin ?
 
Hi Kornbwn and welcome. Two things: 1) the hoses top and bottom will be warm with the top hose being the warmest as the water comes out of the block that way. 2) Check the overflow tip in the radiator neck. It needs to be point up and there is a baffle that should be in the top tank. If it is still really hot then you will need to check the engine out for plugged/leaking jackets or the timing may be retarded.

Mike
 
kornbwn said:
Hello fellow Model A brothers & sisters . I am a newbie to the Barn & to Model A,s as well . Your knowledge is great on the first question I asked , so I thought I would ask for some advise on my new problem . i recently acquired a 1930 Coupe . I actually runs great . No missing or anything like that . But it was overheating .Im a pretty good shade tree mechanic , so I figured I would remove the radiator & get it rodded out . We have a really reputable shop here thats been in business since early 1960s . I got it serviced . In the meantime I flushed the engine block as best I could . I then installed the radiator . New hoses , etc . Put in 50 % antifreeze & 50 % distilled water . Fired it up . Ran it for about 5 min or so . Then was spitting out of the overflow. The water pump does not leak around the shaft , so I assume it is ok . I figure it doesn.t have a thermostat too . Also , the top hose is hot , bottom hose is warm . Even though it purrs like a kitten , ( & it does ) , is my last resort to split the head & clean the ports ? or am I missing sumthin ?
Click to expand...


Is it really? Exactly how hot is it? Spitting water is not a sign of overheating. You need to accurately measure the temps with either a manual gauge or an infrared gun.

Also, have you ensured yourself the ignition timing is not too far retarded?
 
One other thing-I usually hang out on the flathead site-Model As may be like a flathead and need to find their level of coolant. After it spits it may settle down and run fine.
 
I would do a search on overheating. There are lots and lots of discussions on causes and solutions. It's amazing all the things that can cause overheating.
 
I too have a 30. Several things could come into play. Since the radiator was rodded - make sure the overflow tube is not set too low and verify the baffle is present in the top tank. Mine (with new radiator Brass Works) used to always be spitting and someone on the Forum here advised that the radiator would eventually find a level it was happy with. I used to have overheating bad but it was due to timing. I run gycol and water and during the summer only run distilled water with rust inhibiter.


You will get a whole bunch of resonses to this problem. Anyway thats my story on a similar problem and now I shall sit back and wait to be squashed like a bug.... :D :D
 
Thanks Art Deco , the top hose was actually hot , while bottom hose was warm , & the overflow tip is up . In really think the timing is ok , because of how it runs . However , I dont know how these blocks work . When I was flushing the block , the water coming out of the bottom water pipe was an even flow , but about !/4 " in diameter . as opposed to a steady 3/4 " garden hose filling it . also , I did look inside of the neck , I dont see a baffle
 
I never win on E bay either . Lol ! Ya know , I looked down in the neck , & I dont see anything but the overflow . I dont see a baffle .
 
If you have a copy of the Service Bulletins page 450 shows the baffle, or splash plate as
Ford called it, and the correct position for the overflow pipe. If you don't have the Service
Bulletins you should get a copy, tons of good information.

Bob
 
I had the same problem with the baffle missing, water keeps flowing out of the over flow hose. Do you have the spark advance all the way in the down position when its running? If not this will also make it overheat.
 
kornbwn said:
ok , Where do you get the bulletin ?
Click to expand...

Any of the Model A parts houses have the book. Amazon's picture shown below.

51E3GegsGGL._SY300_.jpg


This the Dan Post production that has been around since the 1950s. Others have reproduced the original bulletins on original weight paper in the original size and included the original pages - all of them, which considering that even this um, somewhat acceptable copy is now listing at $26 List, you might want to consider buying.

I've used this book for nearly 40 years and while acceptable, I would prefer the better copy were I to do it for the first and last time.

Joe K
 
Like Brent and others have said, is your car overheating or is it overflowing?

One of two things is happening...

1) Each A has its water level happy place. The amount of water in my A might be different than the amount of water your A takes. Your A may simply be dumping water out the overflow until it gets to the happy place. No big deal.

2) Your A is overheating. Get an infrared thermometer from Home Depot for $20 or $30. Use it to find out what the temp of your radiator is at the top and the bottom. Use it to check the grill prior to throwing the steaks on. Use it to find the cold spot in your wall. Amuse your friends with it.

If your problem is #1, congrats, you don't really have a problem.

If your problem is #2, well then, we have other questions to figure out why you're running hot.

-Tim
 
When you look in the radiator neck, if you don't see flues or tubes you are probably looking at the baffle. If there is no danger of freezing, it will run cooler with plain water. I use water pump lubricant and water, the lubricant coats the cooling system and prevents rust. It will however run cooler with water only. If the timing is retarded ( usually is) it will run and sound good but you will feel lots of heat radiating from the manifold (sometimes cherry red), it will lack power, (may only run 40-45 mph) and will overheat. The model A water pump usually pumps more than the radiator can curculate and the excess exits via the overflow pipe. Some add a thermostat to curb the flow. Snyders recommends grinding material from the tips of the water pump impellor, this is what I have done for years. Good luck.
 
I actually had the spark advance all the way up . It seemed to run better that way . Ill try it down . It just seems weird to me . I guess I will get a thermometer , but it was running hot . I remember my Grandpa tellin us he used to have an A , & could fix just about anything on it with a pair of pliers , a monkey wrench & bailing wire . Maybe not I think now . Maybe he was pullin our leg . Ok ,thanks for the info on the bulletin . I will get one .
 
Wait until you wife is out of town and use her candy or meat thermometer. It should be hottest at the top where you can check it. Don't forget to clean it when you are finished.

Charlie Stephens
 
I have generally run the spark lever "opposite" what my speed is. Go slow, retard the spark. Go fast, bring it down to advance.

Not always but frequently. And this is what a centrifugal advance on a later distributor is designed to do more reliably.

Joe K
 
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