1930-31 Rumble to Trunk conversion

Roadster62

Well-known member
I hope I'm not the first guy in the world that wants to convert a 1930 Roadster rumble seat for a trunk. I bought the black inner panel at Hershey and the rusty one last weekend, note the dimples in the rusty one. Are either 30-31's or are they 28-29's? None of the holes line up with the rear subrail rear crossmember. Some trunk photos sure would help. :) Bob
 

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Here is a reprint of the Ford directions for doing a rumble conversion. It is from a 1968 issue of the Model A News (issue #6 I believe).
I have edited it and removed some pictures and maybe some text. I wanted to slip this into my web page on rumble seat info, but I have some formatting issues to figure out. It looks like you could really use this info right at this minute.

Rumble Seat Conversion​
Reprinted from Ford Dealer and Service Field Magazine with comments by Ed Francis​
[FONT=&quot]How to convert the trunk space of a coupe or roadster to a rumble seat is the most sought after information. The num*ber of inquiries that we have received concerning this subject has caused us to reprint an article which appeared in the 1928 issue of Ford Dealer and Service Field Magazine. The article was reprinted in the March-April, 1963 issue of MARC News, but copies of the issue were de*pleted years ago.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Instructions stated that a dealer's esti*[/FONT][FONT=&quot]mate for the installation of a rumble seat [/FONT][FONT=&quot]in a standard trunk would take 6 to 8 hours, but the factory men thought that it could be done in one hour. It would take most men an hour just to line up all the parts, and we restorers will probably (with some luck) require several months.[/FONT]
The Ford Motor Company originally supplied a crate that listed for $35.00, containing all the parts usually necessary to install the rumble seat, including back cushion, seat cushion, rubber floor mat, coated cardboard or fibre sides, step and bracket for rear, step to go on fender, offset hinges, metal floor plate, screws, bolts, etc. In 1929 the Company pro*duced 99,754 of these kits, in 1930 there were 125,126 produced and in 1931 there were 35,064 standard kits and 775 deluxe kits. (How would you like to find a few of these?)
[FONT=&quot]DOING THE JOB[/FONT]
A good preliminary to installing a rum*ble seat in the Model "A" Ford is to study these instructions. Some points may not be quite clear. So the second essential is to study the "parts" which are to be used in making the installation. While the third step is to study the car itself, and the con*struction of the rear deck. Also, if you wish, to mark with a piece of chalk, the screws and parts which will have to be removed.
We suggest that the two steps be in*stalled BEFORE the job is started, so that there will be less chance of damage to fenders and body lacquer.
The lower step is bolted to a forged steel bracket. This steel bracket is at*tached, at its front end, to the rear of the two horizontal bolts which hold the fen*der brace to the chassis frame. The other
bolt, which goes through this bracket, is a vertical bolt through the corner of the rear cross member of the body.
The other, and upper step, is fastened at the top of the right hand fender.
The usual assortment of mechanics tools will be sufficient for all the work — with the exception of fitting the door latch or lock.
The lower edge of the floor pan as*sembly is distinguished by the "drain holes" (at the bottom of the four rein*forcing ribs).
Notice that the horizontal slot, in the front edge of the lid through which the latch projects, is "off-center" with rela*tion to the round hole for the handle of the door lock.
1. Open rear deck door, and remove by taking out hinge screw A-20910 at each upper corner. Remove hinges from upper corner of deck opening.
[FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Remove deck door support on left side of deck opening.[/FONT]
3. Remove rear floor pan assembly, taking out six screws A-20552, six nuts A-21661, and six lock washers A-22150 in front end. Remove support for pan at rear edge by taking off six screws A-20210 and six lock washers A-22088. Remove bolt A-21144 from tire carrier bracket support, nut A-21795, pin A-23531.
4. Remove deck door guides in two lower corners of deck opening, guide A-41516, screw A-20536, nut A-21661, lock washer A-22150.
5. Remove lock from deck door and drill 15/16" hole in front edge of door locating from hole in under side. Drill 5/32" hole 11/16" forward from center of 15/16" hole. Install lock on front end of door. Install rubber plug A-41540 in hole left open in rear edge of door. (If the door does not have six clinch nuts on the underside and approximately in center for the hinge arm, it will be necessary to replace the door assembly less lock, in*stead of drilling the door and installing the lock at the top edge of the door in*stead of the lower edge.)
6. Install striker plate A-52500 at front end of deck opening, using two screws A-20535, two nuts A-21661, two lock washers A-22150.
7. Install rear floor pan A-50203 in Coupe, and A-40203 in Roadster, using 6 screws A-20233 at rear edge, four
screws A-20552 at front edge in center. Use nuts A-21661 and lock washer A-22150 on these screws. Install deck door bumpers lower A-52484 on bumper brackets, A-52486 in Coupe, and A-41536 in Roadster, using tubular rivets A-22897 on each bracket. Install brackets on floor pan using four screws A-20535, four nuts A-21661, and four lock washers A-22150 on each bracket. Use three screws A-20535, three nuts A-21661 and three lock washers A-22150 at each side of floor pan to rear deck corner plate. Use bolt A-21136, nut A-21795, pin A-23531, through floor pan into tire carrier sup*port.
8. Install wood slats — deck card*board retainer lower, A-52662 in Coupe, and A-41662 in Roadster (using one screw A-20224, one nut A-21572, and lock washer A-22088 through center hole in rear deck pillar. Use same screw and nut in the hole provided in front deck pillar. To fasten the front end of the slat in the standard Coupe, remove the seat back and loosen the side trim panel, and bolt slats to trim rail, using bolt A-20263, nut 21572, lock washer 22088.

9. Secure deck door body hinge A-52530 right hand, and A-52531 left hand in Coupe, A-41543 right hand, A-41544 left hand in Roadster, to rear deck pillar using two screws A-20709, two nuts A-21702, two lock washers A-22217 in each hinge. Use one stove bolt A-20535, one nut A-21661 and one washer A-22150 in each body hinge to drain trough.
10. Install deck door hinge and arm Assembly A-52526 [FONT=&quot]R.H. [/FONT]A-52527 L.H. using six screws A-20402 on each side.
11. Remove screws and nut holding drain trough to quarter panels inside the deck opening, install cardboard retainer upper A-41660 on each side, using same screws and nuts in the same holes. The drain trough on the '30-'31 models was not removable.
12. Assemble deck door guide A*41514 in upper corner to deck opening, using screws A-20536, nuts 21661, lock washers A-22150. Install deck door bumpers A-41518-A in corner plates at two upper corners of deck opening.
13. Assemble side cardboards A*41666 [FONT=&quot]R.H. [/FONT]and A-41667 L.H., using one wood screw A-22637 and finishing washer A-22143 into wood slat through hole provided in cardboard. On Roadster cardboards, use three screws A-22613 on each side, through angle plate into slat on back of seat cushion back.
14. Install rear floor mat A-50240.
15. Assemble door in deck opening, using bolt A-20925, nut A-21740, lock washer A-22245, through hinge arms and spacing washer A-41554 each side of hinge body. Install seat back cushion assembly A-52694 on deck door. Insert hooks in slot at upper edge of door. In*sert cardboard A-52689 between deck door panel and seat back cushion. Se*cure lower edge of seat back cushion to deck door, using bolt A-20413 and plain washer A-22164 through the holes in the ears provided on the seat back frame.
16. Install seat cushion A-52669 making certain prongs are in holes pro*vided in floor pan center forming the seat box.
17. Drill hole in top of right rear fender directly over center of wheel in center of crown, install step A-41563, using washer A-22218, nut A-21707, with pad A-41568 between step and fender.
18. Install step bracket A-41566 us*ing two screws A-20733, two nuts A*21702, two lock washers A-22217 in holes provided in body sill rear. Forward hole in step bracket engages rear fender iron bolt on inside of sill and rear end is bolted to sill at hole in corner plate at end of sill. Use plain washer A-22219 at this place on account of the large hole in sill corner. Assemble the step A-41563 to bracket, using washer A-22217, nut A-21707.
The question may arise, "Why doesn't the Ford Motor Company exchange rear deck lids, thus making it unnecessary to change the hole in the lid?"
Among the reasons why it is not usu*ally practical to make this exchange are: 1. In case the car has been in use for some time, the lid removed may have its finish more or less damaged by careless use. 2. As you know, pyroxylin lacquer dries almost instantly, in the brief time it takes the lacquer to travel 20 inches from the gun. Being so volatile, it is nat*urally hard to keep at exactly the same shade and, as a result, deck lids painted a few months later, may not be of exactly the same shade as the bodies. Even when all cars were black, some blacks were inevitably blacker than others. And with colors, these slight variations are far more noticeable. 3. Then too, there would be the expense of handling these bulky lids without damage.
Near the forward edge of the seat bot*tom of the rumble seat cushion, will be found two projecting "hair pins" of heavy wire. These wire prongs are forced through holes in the sheet steel seat. Then the rear edge of the seat cushion is pushed down, thus snapping the seat cushion into place in such a manner that it is held very securely.
To remove the seat cushion. First lift upwards on the rear of the cushion, and then the front edge can be easily lifted off.
The seat back is held in position by two machine screws, passing through metal lugs attached to the lower edge of the seat back. With these two screws taken out, the removal of the seat back is easy.
Following is a list showing numbers and names of all the parts. These parts should be checked off, according to this list, before starting the job.

The offset hinge, bumper for seat back and rumble​
[FONT=&quot]seat lid in place.[/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 
Thank you Kevin, hard to believe there that many conversion kits made, why didn't people order the cars with a rumble seat in the first place.
 
Really only fit for children, too many geisers would convert their perfectly useful trunk to a rumble seat for the grandkids. Fact is that those seats are dangerous and few will admit it, but imagine that heavy lid slaming in a small collision with those little heads barely sticking out the top. The forward metal is sharp. Now that good lids and rear body panels are getting harder to find, the conversion back to trunk may be a great idea considering what's available. Tossed those cushions decades ago and still haven't finished the job. Look for some poor fool wanting a rumble seat and trade original hardware. Replacement parts going either way are barely adequate. Good Luck: Fred A
 
Someone must have a trunk thay can photograph the details on. The latch is the same, just swapped top to bottom, correct?
 
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