1930/31 Coupe Wood Blocks

George Iowa

George Iowa

Senior Member
1) Are there only 4 wood blocks per side on a 30/31 Ford Coupe? (See Pictures)

I have another large hole in frame (See blue tape sticking out of hole) and was wondering if I was missing a block?

2) Is there a book that has the dimensions of these blocks. I don't know if these blocks have become compressed down through the years.

Thanks for your expertise and experience.
 

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Hello, where ever the is a body channel, there is a body block that fits into it, with exception of the last block the run sideways across the frame, also on repro blocks, check them against the originals if possible, sometimes not made very accurate, and may have to rework to fit them. A search on Ford Barn should bring up location and other information,
 
Les's Red book has body locations with pictures.
When I did my 31 Roadster P/U. I had to modify my blocks so they fit the body locations correctly.
 
1) Les's Red book page 1-25. YES. Thanks Herb. It looks like I have all 8 blocks.

2) Now does anyone have some dimensions on height? I'm thinking of using the old blocks except for the rotten one. Just wondered if they have been squished. I'm handy with the saw so no need to buy new blocks. Or does hight not matter as long as I add some rubber pads to make them all even so my doors operate correctly?

3) Also thinking of painting them up with some Thompson water seal. Good or Bad idea?

Love this site!
 
Hello again, reusing the blocks wouldn’t hurt, as long they aren’t cracked or rotted. Originally the blocks had a dull black finish on them . Also on the top of frame there is a webbing between frame and splash aprons it extended from front edge to just slightly beyond the back of splash aprons , two rubber pads were originally tacked to the wood blocks but you might have to vary them for hood fit and door gaps. If car is a 1930 it will use both holes on 1 st block later in 31 they moved the frame bracket for the 31 s and only one bolt is attached to angle bracket.
 
Only the front has rot. The others look great. I will remake the front block since there is enough left to make a pattern. I will dye them black and then use some Thomson water seal on them.
Already installed the green webbing. (In picture)
Thanks for the bolt hole changes on 30/31.
This would be a hard project without this site...THANKS GUYS!!
 
I'm Steve and am restoring a 1930 Business Coupe and at the point of placing parts and pieces back onto the chassis. This is my first restoration and my first Model A. We noticed the distance from the two-hole bracket to the next closest body block bolt hole on the frame moving towards the rear of the car doesn't match the distance from the two holes in the body back to the next bolt hole. This means only one bolt of the block matches up with the two-hole bracket. We didn't notice this when taking the body off the chassis but see it now. In gdmn852's note he says the bracket was moved on the 31 frame so that only one bolt gets attached to the angle bracket on the frame. It seems like one bolt is sufficient without adding anything to the bracket to accept a second bolt. It also seems like my car may be a 1930 body sitting on a 1931 frame. I'm confused, does anyone have a comment about this? Thanks in advance, Steve.
 
Seems odd compared to previous years; but yes only one bolt due to the relocated mount brackets.
 
Body blocks were designed to leave a gap between the body sills and the running board aprons so they vary in thickness plus thin pads were also used. Ford made drawings of them but there are multiple shapes and dimensions. There are a few drawings here on the barn archives but the ones I remember are other body types. The coupes, roadsters, and phaetons all used the same blocks in 1930/31. Ford generally used a black quick dry paint to preserve wood. I've heard lacquer was used since it dries fairly fast. Modern acrylic lacquer dries even faster but acrylic enamels do as well. Take your pick as long as it's black.
 
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