1929 Standard Roadster
- Thread starter fourfords
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dave in australia
Well-known member
Also, the seals provide a bit of resistance, assuming you have them, and they're in good condition.
springerpete
Well-known member
On my '29 there is a long rubber seal on the bottom of the frame that seals against the cowl and I think there are thin seals on the stanchions. (either my T or A- - I can't go look now.) Bill
Here is a picture of the windshield frame seal.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978010
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978010
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Randy in ca
Well-known member
The condition of the cup and cone that the stud goes through and the ability of the wingnut to push them together sufficiently are the main factors affecting what should hold the windshield firmly in place. Marco Tahtarus once had the fallowing comments on this common problem:
"It usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.
1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).
2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.
3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.
I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or maynot tell you quite abit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!
It's usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.
1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).
2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.
3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.
I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or may not tell you quite a bit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!!"
"It usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.
1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).
2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.
3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.
I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or maynot tell you quite abit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!
It's usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.
1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).
2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.
3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.
I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or may not tell you quite a bit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!!"