1929 Roadster Body Insulation
- Thread starter loumo
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
I do not have any pictures of insulation on a 28-29 Roadster to show you but I have attached a couple of photos of a 30-31 Roadster and another bodystyle to at least give you some idea. I will tell you that in everything we have tried here (bubble, spray, self-contacting), the Dynamat seems to be the best product at being both an anti-drum and insulator. It is pricey but the ease of installation for us offsets the price.
As for the doors, you can use foam inside the door but you run a real risk in distorting them because most foam is an expanding type, ...even when the can says it is not. The trick is just spray enough on the inside to coat the outer skin but do not allow it to grow enough to push on the inner panel.
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As for the doors, you can use foam inside the door but you run a real risk in distorting them because most foam is an expanding type, ...even when the can says it is not. The trick is just spray enough on the inside to coat the outer skin but do not allow it to grow enough to push on the inner panel.
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TedG
Member
Lou,
When I was looking for it I did a Google search for Sound Deadener and came up with a link for a product called FatMat that a lot of the Stereo installers seem to be using it is similar to DynaMat but much less expensive.
You can buy it in rolls or they sell a five pack of sheets which I believe were about 18" X 36" which is plenty to do the quarter panels and both doors, it is adhesive backed so you just cut it to size, peel & stick.
The manufacturer claims it does not give off any odors when it gets warm unlike some asphalt based products.
The 5 pack included a small retractable razor knife and a roller to smooth it out once you stick it on, I remember they have places in Ohio and PA, cost was $45 with free shipping.
I would not use the aeresol foam in doors because I think it would hold water and lead to problems with rust.
Hope this helps,
Ted
When I was looking for it I did a Google search for Sound Deadener and came up with a link for a product called FatMat that a lot of the Stereo installers seem to be using it is similar to DynaMat but much less expensive.
You can buy it in rolls or they sell a five pack of sheets which I believe were about 18" X 36" which is plenty to do the quarter panels and both doors, it is adhesive backed so you just cut it to size, peel & stick.
The manufacturer claims it does not give off any odors when it gets warm unlike some asphalt based products.
The 5 pack included a small retractable razor knife and a roller to smooth it out once you stick it on, I remember they have places in Ohio and PA, cost was $45 with free shipping.
I would not use the aeresol foam in doors because I think it would hold water and lead to problems with rust.
Hope this helps,
Ted
Jim Huseby
Senior Member
Brent- Is the dynamat heavy or relatively light? I restored a black Jag sedan about 25 years ago and used some super advertised adhesive-backed automotive sound deadener inside the metal roof and when the sun baked the roof, the sound deadener dropped onto the headliner. The adhesive, the weight of the material and my poor choice of insulating methods made for a bad day (both the embarrassment and the cost of doing it over). What is your judgment about Dynamat's ability to stay in place in wide ranges of temperatures and moisture?
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
About 9 years ago I re-did the hardtop for my Triumph Spitfire. I insulated it with Frost King brand stick-on foil-covered foam, about 1/4" thick, that I got from Home Depot. I used some extra glue around the edges to be safe, but there has been no signs of detachment. This stuff is probably not as good as Dynamat for vibration damping, but it costs about 1/10 as much.
I was more concerned about insulation.
Doug
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
Hello, do you have any tips on getting this stuff for a reasonable price?
It seems to be like many other fancy brand-name products: never on sale...
Doug
Paul's Garage
Member
There is an asphalt based product at Lowe's that some of the hot rodders and the Tri-Five guys have used much cheaper and they all claim no smell and works great. Cut and stick, and they claim it works great. I think it was around $60.00 for a 100 square feet. Might be worth a look.
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
Is this something from the roofing section? Bummer; I just got back from a visit to Lowe's.
I would feel a bit funny putting shiny, logo-covered Dynamat on my car. A simple black asphalt product seems more authentic...
Doug
FL&WVMIKE
Well-known member
On my 1929 Roadster, I used plain ole roofing repair cement with fibers. I never did have any odors and when you peck on the panels with your knuckles, it sounds solid as a rock. You just apply it with an old paintbrush. And it's inexpensive. I did mine at least forty years ago and it still is holding up well.
MIKE
MIKE
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BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Most of those foams actually float on water and repel moisture so it really isn't a concern about causing rust IMO.
With regard to using other products, use whatever you feel does the best job for you. Time is a huge factor for us, and thus the reason why we have settled on DynaMat. Naturally I have no financial stake in the company so if Lowes has something you feel is equal, then by all means use it. What I learned from using products like Lizard Skin etc. is they are messy to install, and the bubble type insulation is also more for insulation only however we do use it still in the roof areas. The products that many of the stereo guys use is more for anti-drumming and has no insulation properties. Now if you choose to combine them, then I'm sure you would accomplish both goals but again, for us it is about the time it would take to do the job twice.
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With regard to using other products, use whatever you feel does the best job for you. Time is a huge factor for us, and thus the reason why we have settled on DynaMat. Naturally I have no financial stake in the company so if Lowes has something you feel is equal, then by all means use it. What I learned from using products like Lizard Skin etc. is they are messy to install, and the bubble type insulation is also more for insulation only however we do use it still in the roof areas. The products that many of the stereo guys use is more for anti-drumming and has no insulation properties. Now if you choose to combine them, then I'm sure you would accomplish both goals but again, for us it is about the time it would take to do the job twice.
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TedG
Member
Yes, FatMat is a sound deadener and not an insulator, I used it in the doors and rear quarters.
I would think, in an open car especially, the areas to insulate well would be the floor and firewall.
About 12 yrs ago when I built my Street Rod I used a product on the floor and firewall that had a foil face on one side of the insulation to reflect heat and a jute type material on the other that acts as padding under the carpet, the rest of the interior including the roof is done with the foil faced bubble wrap that was popular back then, I found it at a Home Center in 2' wide rolls for less that half of what the vendors were charging.
The vendors sell a firewall insulator for the A's that I feel is not very attractive, how can the firewall be insulated and since that area is exposed what could it be covered with?
I recall seeing a muffler heat shield at a swap meet, do they really work and is there one that holds up well, both mounting brackets on that one were cracked?
If the spray foam is an open cell type it can hold moisture similar to a sponge, another concern would be if the drain holes in the bottom of the door got covered.
I would think, in an open car especially, the areas to insulate well would be the floor and firewall.
About 12 yrs ago when I built my Street Rod I used a product on the floor and firewall that had a foil face on one side of the insulation to reflect heat and a jute type material on the other that acts as padding under the carpet, the rest of the interior including the roof is done with the foil faced bubble wrap that was popular back then, I found it at a Home Center in 2' wide rolls for less that half of what the vendors were charging.
The vendors sell a firewall insulator for the A's that I feel is not very attractive, how can the firewall be insulated and since that area is exposed what could it be covered with?
I recall seeing a muffler heat shield at a swap meet, do they really work and is there one that holds up well, both mounting brackets on that one were cracked?
If the spray foam is an open cell type it can hold moisture similar to a sponge, another concern would be if the drain holes in the bottom of the door got covered.
John LaVoy
Well-known member
Quiet Ride solutions was used on the Model A Times sedan. They make the firewall insulator sold by all the parts stores. In the Spring 2008 we did the article on installing the insulation kit in the sedan. Their kits come with everything to do the job.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Dad-who was not wealthy at the time-used fiberglass insulation in the car. It makes the doors rock solid, deadens sound and keeps the car relatively cool. The only downside I could see is if it gets wet. That and replacing the top is going to be a REAL pain.
Mike
Mike
Try EZ Cool insulation, http://www.lobucrod.com/ Lobucrod is a HAMB er offers discounts to HAMB alliance members maybe he would do the same here.??