1929 Phaeton Body

L

LeRoiGross

Member
I am restoring my 29 Phaeton from the ground up. I am having trouble with repo parts for the body that I have to modify to make them fit. Such as radiator shell that is too thick and full length sills that are too short. Does anybody have and detailed diagrams of the body sheet metal with dimensions that show bolt hole locations? It seems there is a lot of info about the main chassis and the mechanical parts of an A but not much about the body and the best sequence for assembling it. Any original Ford blueprints? Bodies were made by other companies but I don't know who made the Phaeton body.
 
Ford made the phaeton bodies, not Briggs, Murray or Budd. I am also restoring a 29 phaeton that was in terrible condition, as most unrestored phaetons are. Phaeton's, being one of the cheapest cars, were treated badly. For the reasons you stated, I used the original subrails, even though they were in very bad condition. I spent over two months welding up holes and damage to the subrails and cross sills. I reasoned that if I did that (saved them), the doors would fit as well as other items on the car. Like you stated, almost all repro sheetmetal parts don't fit right or look right, probably including the subrails and cross sills. Plus, like you stated, you have to figure out where the rivet and bolt holes are to be drilled, which isn't easy. If you use repro subrails, you will probably have problems with the doors fitting properly, which isn't easy, even with original parts used. My advice is unless the subrails and sills are totally beyond repair, try to save them, even though it might be considerable work. I don't know if there are any drawings available for phaeton bodies, but I suspect not.
Rusty Nelson
 
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LeRoiGross said:
I am restoring my 29 Phaeton from the ground up. I am having trouble with repo parts for the body that I have to modify to make them fit. Such as radiator shell that is too thick and full length sills that are too short. Does anybody have and detailed diagrams of the body sheet metal with dimensions that show bolt hole locations? It seems there is a lot of info about the main chassis and the mechanical parts of an A but not much about the body and the best sequence for assembling it. Any original Ford blueprints? Bodies were made by other companies but I don't know who made the Phaeton body.
Click to expand...

You can go through the Ford Archives and hopefully they have the blue prints. Just do not excpect something for nothing...they are not cheap (if they have them).

Pluck
 
Thanks, Rusty,
I do still have the old sills and cross members and will probably use as much of them as I can. I just finished trimming my radiator mounts and front apron to try and get my shell to fit and not rub. Just takes a lot of work to get around poor parts.
 
wrndln said:
Ford made the phaeton bodies, not Briggs, Murray or Budd. I am also restoring a 29 phaeton that was in terrible condition, as most unrestored phaetons are. Phaeton's, being one of the cheapest cars, were treated badly. For the reasons you stated, I used the original subrails, even though they were in very bad condition. I spent over two months welding up holes and damage to the subrails and cross sills. I reasoned that if I did that (saved them), the doors would fit as well as other items on the car. Like you stated, almost all repro sheetmetal parts don't fit right or look right, probably including the subrails and cross sills. Plus, like you stated, you have to figure out where the rivet and bolt holes are to be drilled, which isn't easy. If you use repro subrails, you will probably have problems with the doors fitting properly, which isn't easy, even with original parts used. My advice is unless the subrails and sills are totally beyond repair, try to save them, even though it might be considerable work. I don't know if there are any drawings available for phaeton bodies, but I suspect not.
Rusty Nelson
Click to expand...


Actually, there is information that counters your statement Rusty. Evidently, the 35A body panels were developed by Budd Body, and likely some of the stampings were done by Budd too.

As for drawing at the archives, I have an assembly drawing (AF-120001) that gives some dimensions however you need many other assembly drawing to add with those to make up the body. The thing to realize is this was the drawing for export however certain dimensions still apply.

.
 

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Just so you know there's limited info on the bodies. So you have to work from what you have, pictures, drawings from other cars or whatever you can find. An original car is a big help to get the details. If you can rebuild what you have, use the frame as a jig to hold everything in place as you go. Make sure the frame is straight, level and square before you start.
Things I've learn't restoring Model A's over the last 45 years.

John Poole
 
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rusty/ leroi-i'm currently restoring 28 phaeton and have body oarts off frame- don't know if 28 and 29 are identical but while body parts are off for now , i can give you some measurements tho some of the holes are rusted out also but will give it a try
 
wbs
I would think the subrails of a 28 would be the same as a 29. I am interested in the hole placement and dimensions for the side rails and cross rails underneath the body panels. For example, how far back are the B pillars located from the front of the side rails. And how long is the whole subrail assembly. Mine keep coming a little short of the rear bumper support bars. Also my repo radiator shell has a wide lip at the bottom which means I have to move the radiator forward half an inch to keep the shell from hitting the splash apron. This seems to change the whole length of the body since it now starts too far forward.
 
Here you go LeRoi:

A-35045
A-35050
A-35054
A-35039
A-35032
A-35033
A-35030
A035031

Now...go to the MAFFI site and look the numbers up. If you do not know anything about the Part numbers and how they work...I would learn before you start ordering JUST ANY part. There were changes as Ford moved along in the production.

For instance, there were 12 changes of some sort to A-35045 from Late 1927 through 1929.

The FIRST thing you want to do is get the Part Releases for each part, study them, and then determine just what drawing you might need. You can use this information to date your car. Sometimes the changes are very minor but you never know.

Pluck
 
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