1929 double a won't start, help

Ok so I found my dimple, it's exactly at 180 of where I original though it was. I confirmed it by looking through the spark plug.
If it wasn't for the wrench I would of never seen it trying by pushing it.

The timing gear is definitely at a angle, highest spot is at the dimple and lowest is at 180 degree so basicly when piston #4 is at tdc.

So I just set the timing and she started and then quickly died. Gave a couple turns of the fuel enrichment and she started up again and died again.

But I'm worried about that timing gear and trying to get her started without knowing what's going has got me nervous.

I think I should take a look at that gear before trying to start it again.
 
Your timing gear shouldn't wobble or be eccentric. Something's going on there, and I suspect it is misaligned on the shaft. You may just have to remove the pulley and the front cover, get in there and find out why the timing gear is at an angle and fix that.
Now, if it started up and then died, not once but twice, I'd start at the fuel bulb and petcock and work my way toward the carburetor, making sure there isn't something intermittently clogging the line or the mesh strainer, then pull the carburetor, check the float level and all orifices and needle valves, blow them out with brake cleaner, carb cleaner and high-pressure air.
 
Yea, progress. Getting it started is great. Now on to the fuel issue.

If your light is always on at the coil then that may be the side that is connected to the battery. The opposite side should be connected to the points when the ignition is on. So it seems that it is nothing to worry about.

Yes, you should be worried about the gear wobbling. The hub could be coming loose from the gear, a common failure. Or someone may have installed it 180 degrees out. There are two pins and they are not 180 degrees opposed so the gear can be installed in only one way. If someone installed the gear wrong one of the pins could be holding part of the gear out. In any case it is something to examine and fix. It looks like the plate that your oil filter is attached to can just come off like a normal plate.
 
If you have one of the timing gears as mentioned above the hub can come
loose from the gear.
 

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Well there's your problem.
Hard to see because my picture stuck.
Partial broken teeth on first pic.
I turned into the wobble on second and can see the hub teeth sticking out the side.

I'm off in search of a new timing wheel.
BTW that part holding the filter is aluminium.
 

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Did some research so I can see that gear is fiber and it's coming apart, missing chunks actually.

So should I go fiber again or aluminium?
Can anybody recommend a reputable dealer I can buy from in Canada or that ships to Canada.

And can someone please tell me If I can remove that front cover without removing the radiator.


I hope I can drive it atleast once or twice before putting her away for the winter.
 
Can anybody recommend a reputable dealer I can buy from in Canada
Click to expand...

Goerge Moir in Stony Plain, Alberta or The Old Car Centre in Langley, BC

There should be some suppliers in Eastern Canada
 
The fiber gear was used because it is quiet. However the aluminum gear is stronger and will last a lot longer, although it will make a little bit of a noise.

You can remove the front cover without removing the radiator but removing the radiator makes the whole job a lot easier. You can prop up the hood if you don't want to remove it but it is easier if you do remove the hood. Some people will haul up the hood with a block and tackle and a hook on the ceiling. Clean out any loose gear parts as best you can and consider an oil change. Some people will recommend that you remove the pan to get out any remaining pieces.
 
Got my parts, really fast and great service.
Twiss car parts .ca
I went with aluminum for the gear.
Got a fuel valve and filter to fix my current leaky valve.

My fuel line looks a little wanky so I'm thinking of changing it too.
Is there any reason I shouldn't replace with copper?
I ask because I already work with copper and already have everything I need.
If not then whats best, stainless?
 
My ccpu had a copper line for many years. Copper will work harden and possibly crack so it's not the best choice.

I think the vendors sell pre bent steel pipe for this.

Copper will do until your next order though....
 
So I tried putting a rag between the gear to prevent it from turning. But soon realized there was nothing holding it together.

Now how to I prevent that gear from turning?
 

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I can get a big pipe wrench on the hub. But then I can't get a good grip on bolt from the side.
I think I might need to remove radiator so I can use a impact from the front.
Crap
 
Maybe you could hold it with an oil filter wrench?
 

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Danny,

I just changed to rope seal in the front of my car. Removing the radiator made the job a lot easier. I had to remove the pan for another reason anyway so the seal was a natural thing to do. I thought I was going to have to remove the cam gear so I removed the nut. I used the adapter available from the supply houses and a socket wrench with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe on the breaker bar. When I put the nut back on I used the same setup. I put some thread locking compound on the face of the nut as a safety measure. I put a new camshaft thrust plunger and spring in.

I did not have the same issue you have but have an aluminum gear. I put the car in high (third gear) and put the emergency brake on so that the crankshaft, and thus the cam gear, could not turn.
 
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