Ok I'm back. Sorry life got in the way so I haven't done much on the truck. I did add marvel mistery oil a few times and cranked the starter a few rotations to spread it around.
It really helped because when I checked today I had movement in my valves, sticking a bit but alot better.
So today I opened the valve cover and added alot more marvel oil.
I went shopping and bought myself a 6v light circuit tester and a 1 3/8 box wrench. I cut the wrench and welded it back with 2 90degree bends so no more pushing the truck for me ��.
I took a good look at the timing with the light tester and I understand what you guys been saying about the timing and yes I had it wrong.
I let the oil soak all day while I made my wrench and messed around with the timing.
Then I blew some air through the spark plug with help of my compressor and added a little more oil and blew some more air and with my trusty new wrench spun that engine.
Valves where opening and closing nicely so I reassembled everything.
Now here's where it gets weird.
I noticed 2 things that made my brain go WTF ???
#1- setting the timing pin.
I've seen pictures or the dimple and my timing pin has been sharpened. It's very easy to see the pin fall into the dimple but i can keep rotating with the wrench and the pin doesn't t pop back out until I'm past the #2 piston pin in the distributor body.
So the timing pin drops in but I can rotate until the distributor rotor goes past the #2 pin, then it slowly comes out and it keeps moving out until I pass the next pin (I think it's #4 piston, firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3 I believe).
Then it starts moving inwards past that #4 pin and keeps moving inwards the whole time as it passes by the #3 piston pin and then falls flush as it reaches the #1 pin again.
Same thing happens if I apply pressure on the pin and I cant feel the dimple in the gear, the pin just falls flush.
So is it possible that gear is at a angle? And is that something I should be worried about?
So the pin sticks out about 3/8" at maximum and goes in slowly as I turn until it hits the pins shoulder, I can't feel the dimple.
Tomorrow I'll find something the right diameter and sharpen it to make a longer pin and see if I can't find that dimple.
#2 this guy
https://youtu.be/mwirH7f0a9o
This video shows how I was trying to set my timing with the light tester.
It's a great way to do it if you can't get a nu hex timing wrench.
It works perfectly If I hook up the tester ground to a engine bolt and the other tester tip on the points moving arm.
It gets weird when I use a engine bolt as ground and hook up the other one to the coil instead of the points moving arm (like he does in the video). When I do it that way my light is always on? Light only goes off when I turn the key to off.
I tried flipping the coil around and get the same result (as mentioned before I wired that coil exactly like the old coil, + is on passenger side - on driver side).
I've tried both way and get same result, light is always on as the points open and close.
After assembling I tried starting her up and got a big 0.
Good news is I think my sticky valve problem is fixed, I'm not getting any gas blowing out the wrong way anymore.
But my guess is timing is completely off because the pin is simply stopping at the bolt shoulder before actually hitting the dimple.
. Atleast I got 1 fixed.
