1929 Coupe Restoration Questions

R

RyanB

Member
A couple of questions for the experts on my 1929 standard coupe restoration.

First is that I cannot seem to find top wood bolt kits. I was only able to save a couple of the original bolts in dismantling and cannot find 28-29 only 30-31 couple top wood bolts. I am not sure these will work. Any suggestions?

Second is that I am going to have my painter paint the car rose beige, seal brow, and orange pin strip but he wants to use a dupont water based paint. I have the PPG repaint manual with the paint chips but I am really worried about the paint shop matching three colors. Anyone advice would be really appreciated. This is causing a lot of stress this week.

Third question is that my painter says he always paints the bottoms of his model A restorations black as he says he thinks it looks better and he can touch it up easier. I am not sure on this and wanted to get the groups opinion.
We are getting close and have a 24th of July parade we are trying to make so we are scrambling.
Sorry about all of the newbie questions. I just have no one else to ask.
 

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I would think that the bolt kit for the Special Coupe would have most of the bolts you need and you could figure out from there which other bolts you need and go to the hardware store and get whatever you need from there.

If the painter will not use the paint you want and paint the bottom lower body color you want maybe it is time to find another painter. You are the paying customer so you can have it your way. Keep that in mind. Rod
 
I agree that you should paint it as correct to original as possible, and not what's easiest for the painter to touch up.

A restoration is a very long process, and I wouldn't put a deadline on it to make a parade.
 
Is your painter suggesting painting the lower body black or the underside black?

I would be inclined to at least talk to another painter, as well as following the advice here.
 
Thanks for the info. I was able to find a pain supply store in Salt Lake City that can get me the exact PPG paint formulas in a water based paint which is fantastic. It cost me a pretty penny with the paint and the clear coat but well worth it. I talked to my painter and gave him the exact paint scheme and specs and he is going to follow it exactly. Still working out the top wood kit bolts as no one carries them, even the suggested Top Wood Products supplier. They won't provide bolts without the wood. I am going to try the 1930-31 couple and then piece together what does not fit from the hardware store. The end is in sight finally. Thanks for all the help.
 
Forgot to mention that the orange pin stripe has me a little worried as it is really quite bright but I will get used to it I guess. I had thoughts of leaving it off as I have seen on a couple of other coupes but I am going to go for it as I want it to look correct.
 
Your striper should be able to modify that orange to your liking. I had my guy make a couple passes before we got a French Gray that didn't look like bright white against my black belt. Colors change relative to what they are on or next to.
 
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The colours are no problem. They can be scanned from the Refinishing guide. The underside of the floor was originally bare metal with red oxide primer overspray and lower body colour overspray. In the judging standards it says that black is allowed to protect the metal. A trick I've done is to find a red paint that's the same colour as the primer and put flattening agent in it. This way everything is sealed up but it looks like primer but has the protection of paint.
John Poole
 
I'm no paint expert but I agree with the other comments. You are the paying customer have them do what you want done not what is easier for them. When we had a new garage floor poured I insisted that the concrete guy (who is also a good friend) put down a vapor barrier over the crushed rock. He tried his best to talk me out of it. I refused to budge and I got my vapor barrier. Garage is always dry as a bone even17 years later. Another concrete finisher told me years later that they do not like finishing concrete with a barrier because you have to work it faster than concrete with no barrier.

I'd also maybe look into Acrylic enamel over the water base paint I'm not sold on how long that will hold up yet.
 
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