1929/1930 Pickup Chassis? Maybe?

[AlphaBob]

This is my first post and I apologize because I know if I spend hours and hours searching through prior posts I will be able to discern exactly what I have. However, I'm anxious to get some parts ordered and suspect that many of you will be able to identify exactly what I've got.

Specifically I was told by the seller that the chassis (including motor, drive train, steering gear, and some sheet metal) is a 1929 pickup. However, the engine serial number suggests that its a 1930 (October) production run. I realize that over 92 or 93 years parts have probably been swapped out so it would be great if some of you could help me understand exactly what I've got.

1. The firewall style and engine serial number seem to suggest that it's a 1930. The firewall is beaded (which I understand started in 1930) and the serial # is: A4012xxx which from research suggests October 1930. Am I correct that the firewall and engine are 1930?

2. The radiator appears to be from a 1929 because the bottom outlet is angled horizontally and outward at a 30-degree +/- angle. I just picked up the chassis last week and the radiator is at the radiator shop (old school guys, he recognized it and understands how it functions). But, in the event that I need to replace the radiator, I'd like to make sure its correct for the year. Naturally, I'm hoping to verify that the radiator cowl is also 1929.

3. Is there a definitive way to know that this is a pickup chassis? Or more importantly, is the pickup chassis different from others?

4. The front rims look like 21" (i.e. 1928/1929) and the rears smaller. The chassis isn't here at the house so I can't give specific measurements, but is there any information about the rims that is obvious to anyone.

5. Related to the rim question above, do all Model As have the same bolt pattern and are the rims interchangeable?

Thanks in advance, and again I apologize for the basic questions, but want to put this back together as accurately as possible, and at the same time, avoid ordering and returning parts that were incorrectly ordered.

PS: it was advertised as "Ran when parked" - haha!

 

[Bob C]

It's a 1928-29. Looks like it has a solid front motor mount and I see a radiator shroud
by the shifter which would point to 1928.

 

[WTSHNN]

Frame is a '28.

The cowl is a '28 or '29.

On the drivers side of the firewall look on the gas tank for a date stamped MM DD YY. This will tell you the date the gas tank was assembled. It appears on most mid 28 - mid 29 tanks.

21 and 19 in Model A Wheels have the same bolt pattern.

The pickup used the same chassis as a passenger car and based on what you have left there is no way to tell what body was originally on it.

The engine number dates the engine to the first week of October 1930.

Based on your questions you should get a copy of this book.
https://model-a-ford.org/product/model-a-restoration-guidelines-judging-standards-complete-set/

 

[51504bat]

Looks like a good start to a speedster project

 

[ronn]

28-29 used 21 rims and 30-31 used 19 inch rims

either works......

 

[California Travieso]

Can you see the frame number? That would be a better clue than the engine number.

David Serrano

 

[Joe K]

One can look at the "pads" where the radiator lower feet attach to the front crossmember. Starting in October 1929 the pads were "lowered" below the side rails, and Ford Service Bulletins indicated a "shim" was to be used at each location on the remaining production to be built with the "shorter" 1928-29 style radiator.

When the change-over to the "new & improved" 1930 Model A was fully underway, the cars were assembled WITHOUT the shim. The truck line continued with the 1929 style body until about May 1930 so there are some trucks that may have a quarter turn gas cap on their 1929 style gas tank. These trucks also seem to incorporate the 1930 style steering column and wheel - although all these details of the "transition" truck are, um, "transitional."

Ford was famous for "not wasting anything" - and parts which were outmoded for the car line tended to be shunted over to the truck lines until stocks were used up.

Probably the best indication of model year for your chassis would be the chassis number - which should be the same as the original build engine number. Engine numbers are well documented to month and probably week of production. The chassis number would be on the frame below the driver's left foot and is normally covered by the cowl portion of the body.

So you build this car from parts - and then you claim your Grandfather worked for Ford and smuggled the entire car out from work in his lunch-box?

Johnny Cash at his peak: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIuo0KIqD_E

Joe K

 

[updraught]

I like that.
I bought, from where I can't remember, a new Weber originally used on a local Falcon here. The story I later heard was that there were lots smuggled out of the factory. I fitted it to a 1960's GM supposedly to be more fuel efficient than a Holly 350 on a 6 cylinder. Had to plug a few holes. Don't know that it was much better. It suffered from vapor lock on hot days.
It still gave 10 mpg at 100 mph.

 

[AlphaBob]

A speedster project - precisely! My intent is to leave the frame, motor, etc. completely original so in another 93 years if someone wants to return it to it's original glory nothing will be modified. I was told that this was a huckster and was in the same family for the last 60+ years.

I'll attach a couple pictures of my [aspirational] speedster and one practice rear fender I recently made.

 

[AlphaBob]

Good tips. Thank you!

 

[Chris Haynes]

The parking brake lever in front of the shift lever and solid front motor mount identify it as a Second Design 1928.
When you get around to getting a title for it NEVER MENTION THAT YOU ASSEMBLED THE CAR FROM PARTS.
I have found the easiest way to get a title is to conduct a Lien Sale. Ask your local Impound Yard who they use to do their Lien Sales. Here in So Cal I use Grant Lien Sales.

 

[rotorwrench]

A lot of theses old cars are Bitsa cars. You know, bits a this and bits a that. It was what kept them going so long. Lift the cowl up off the frame and look on the left side top of the rail where the cowl was. A model A serial number should be there as long as it hasn't rusted too bad. This would be the number to use for registration.

The solid front motor mount is 1928 but cross members can be replaced. I've found many bolted in when they were originally riveted.

 

[Randy in ca]

Possible that the frame is an early '28 as it appears to have had the early left hand parking brake at one time.


-

 

[chrs1961815]

I have found that the cutout for the left hand brake was on frames for some time after the switchover to the center brake.