1928 Model A Torque Tube Speedometer Gear

[Omar Morales]

Hello All,
After much troubleshooting, parts replacements and speedo testing, I believe I may have found the culprit.

I believe the torque tube speedo gear assembly is missing the snap ring. The gear itself slides back and forth freely.

Are you able to tell from these pictures if that is the case? If so, are you able to tell from the pictures where it goes?

Thank you!!

 

[miff]

Hello All,
After much troubleshooting, parts replacements and speedo testing, I believe I may have found the culprit.

I believe the torque tube speedo gear assembly is missing the snap ring. The gear itself slides back and forth freely.

Are you able to tell from these pictures if that is the case? If so, are you able to tell from the pictures where it goes?

Thank you!!

I have the same problem . I have heard of taking red lockout, jacking up the real wheel . Then centering the gear on the drive shaft. Applying the red Loctite to the around The gear and shaft turning the wheel a little bit (apply locktite ) at a time. Then letting it cure. I have done this , but not driven the car yet to see if it works . I have been told the correct way is to pull the rear end .This coming weekend I will drive the car and let you know if it works. I know this is not the correct way to fix the problem . A lot of people will disagree, it’s worth a try .Before I have to disconnect the torque tube from the transmission , and possibly pull the ear end .

 

[miff]

I forgot to add that I cleaned where the gear and shaft meet with brake cleaner . Let it dry and then add the locktite

 

[Fullraceflathead]

Loctite also makes a green wicking version that is supposed to wick in between between 2 clean surfaces also.

 

[nkaminar]

If you use Loctite and later decide to remove the parts, you can do so by heating the parts. That will soften the Loctite. Clean the parts with acetone before using the Loctite.

 

[Omar Morales]

Thank you all for the guidance! I did buy the replacement snap ring and will provide an update once I get it installed. I am hopeful this is where the problem lies. I also tested the speedo cable from this are and it works.

 

[Kurt in NJ]

You have to take it out and the problem is more than just a snap ring .
In the first picture it shows the gear too far back —- something is wrong,missing
It seems too much space for it to just be the washer.
A typical repair for that if it was just the snap ring would be coathanger— twisted ends and cut off short . .
Go looking towards the u joint with a hook or angled pic the snap ring could still be there.

 

[Omar Morales]

UPDATE 7/1: Now I understand the guidance on the Loctite to hold the gear in place and/or the coat hanger in place of the snap ring.

I under the car yesterday and looked for the snap ring with no luck. I think it is reasonable to conclude that it may have been left off re-assembly during the restoration.

I am leaning towards using a coat hanger as a temporary measure only to confirm this is indeed the problem.

I am wondering, do I have to take apart the entire rear end to disconnect the torque tube?

I had read that I would need to remove the clam shell and be able to access installing the ring but I have not been able to find videos on how to do this.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Happy early 4th of July!

 

[rotorwrench]

Removing the rear drive assembly requires well placed jack stands to hold the car up. It generally requires some way to support the drive assembly so that the wheels can be removed and the assembly can be moved after disconnecting brake links, shocks, front clam shells, and the rear spring hanger U-bolts. Some folks make there own dolly for rear ends and others make plywood cut outs just smaller in diameter to the drums so they can roll the whole thing on the home made wheels to clear the fenders. The other option is to just push it back far enough on the drums to get to the shaft and do it all under the car. The C clip just fits into a groove on the spline shaft. It's springy enough to fit over the splines and slide it down till it pops into the groove. Removing the C clip to remove the drive gear and thrust washer isn't too bad if that's what you have in mind. New C-clip rings are available from sources. There is a seal down in there, then there is the bearing and it's shell. The thrust washer fits between the gear and the roller bearing. The clip holds it all in there.

 

[Benson]

Hello All,
After much troubleshooting, parts replacements and speedo testing, I believe I may have found the culprit.

I believe the torque tube speedo gear assembly is missing the snap ring. The gear itself slides back and forth freely.

Are you able to tell from these pictures if that is the case? If so, are you able to tell from the pictures where it goes?

Thank you!!

From the photos looks like you might be missing the drive shaft roller bearing A-4645-B. Or the wrong length bearing was installed.

Retainer A-22431 might be missing also.


I would verify that all 6 parts (Including the seal) are installed before thinking that red Loctite is needed.

 

[Omar Morales]

I did find this great visual of what it should look like. I did purchase the retaining clip. I did not think about other potential missing parts

 

[Joe K]

Some folks make there own dolly for rear ends

Two of the 12x18 Harbor Freight carpet padded dollies work good - and the square is just the right size to take the circle of the brake drum.

Go on sale frequently too...

Joe K

 

[Phil Brown]

Two of the 12x18 Harbor Freight carpet padded dollies work good - and the square is just the right size to take the circle of the brake drum.

Go on sale frequently too...

Joe K

Thats what I use, only I get a third one and a small piece of plywood to use at the front of the torque tube and get the whole assembly out from under the car to work on. Even on the ground on the roller dollies the work is easer than under the car