1928 Double Venturi bowl
- Thread starter fourfords
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Joe K
Well-known member
In general, electrolytic rust removal would be my "go-to" in matters like this.
Cast iron responds VERY well to electrolysis. Copper bearing alloys are more resistant to the bath so these should be fine.
One thinks of the zinc "sacrificial anode" used on boat propellers - and the electrochemical series. Cast iron is below bronze is what makes this so.
Electrolytic is noted for "loosening up parts" which I do a lot on the more complex Model A assemblies. I've even used it on an engine block which I resolved I didn't care if it loosened the babbitt since it was going to be rebabbitted anyway. Final result - it didn't touch the babbitt that I can tell. But the rest of the block was clean for painting.
A good write up with pictures is at https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
He uses "washing soda", but I use regular "Lye" which is otherwise known as Sodium Hydroxide, or "Crystal Lye Drain Cleaner" on Amazon. Its VERY cheap and probably more available than washing soda. And you use "less" of the chemical. After placing or reattaching parts in the bath (electrolysis shut off) your hands come out VERY clean. You'll know your hands are in the bath from your small cuts, but if you wash off quickly there will be no damage done.
DON'T use "Draino." Draino is like 96 percent sodium hydroxide, but contains aluminum powder which is designed to react with the sodium hydroxide to create HEAT, which helps the de-grease in pipes, but COULD be hazardous to your person unconfined.
After electrolysis, to neutralize the caustic and catch any "rust bloom" I use Phosphoric Acid which used to be sold as "Prep & Etch." The same company now sells it as "Concrete and Metal Preparation" as it is used for both, and is the same stuff. Available at the big box hardware stores.
Joe K
Cast iron responds VERY well to electrolysis. Copper bearing alloys are more resistant to the bath so these should be fine.
One thinks of the zinc "sacrificial anode" used on boat propellers - and the electrochemical series. Cast iron is below bronze is what makes this so.
Electrolytic is noted for "loosening up parts" which I do a lot on the more complex Model A assemblies. I've even used it on an engine block which I resolved I didn't care if it loosened the babbitt since it was going to be rebabbitted anyway. Final result - it didn't touch the babbitt that I can tell. But the rest of the block was clean for painting.
A good write up with pictures is at https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
He uses "washing soda", but I use regular "Lye" which is otherwise known as Sodium Hydroxide, or "Crystal Lye Drain Cleaner" on Amazon. Its VERY cheap and probably more available than washing soda. And you use "less" of the chemical. After placing or reattaching parts in the bath (electrolysis shut off) your hands come out VERY clean. You'll know your hands are in the bath from your small cuts, but if you wash off quickly there will be no damage done.
DON'T use "Draino." Draino is like 96 percent sodium hydroxide, but contains aluminum powder which is designed to react with the sodium hydroxide to create HEAT, which helps the de-grease in pipes, but COULD be hazardous to your person unconfined.
After electrolysis, to neutralize the caustic and catch any "rust bloom" I use Phosphoric Acid which used to be sold as "Prep & Etch." The same company now sells it as "Concrete and Metal Preparation" as it is used for both, and is the same stuff. Available at the big box hardware stores.
Joe K
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johnbuckley
Well-known member
I usually soak it in cellulose thinners for 24 hours, if that doesn't do it then I use heat with a gun ( propane/actylene mix canisters are available over here)
Gary WA
Well-known member
I clean all excess materials then Heat jets screws ect really hot, Propane is not hot enough hit with cold water and remove jets screws etc- may have to do it a couple of times then bead blast.Send it to me i will clean it up just for postage..
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