1927 model t oil leak

Tim ford

Junior Member
Hello. My 1927 Model T has an oil leak on back of the transmission where the ball on wishbone attaches. Last year I cleaned the area and applied J.B. Weld (the one in a plastic tube that you mix with finger and apply to leak area). This did not work. Wondering if there is an easy fix without pulling the motor and having it brazed? Thank you. Tim
 
Are you sure it isn't oil seeping down from the inspection plate? The brazing in that area is pretty good along with the rivets so if it is leaking from that area, the only fix might be to pull the engine are either repair or replace the pan.
 
squirt it with some soapy water and put the blow end of a vac cleaner in the oil fill hole and look for bubbles.
 
Come on Tim, Model T's do not leak oil...they drip:D Steve has you on the right track, It's almost september how did you make out?

My 26 had a weep from the valve cover gasket "inspection plate". A new gasket and some black RTV coated on both sides of the gasket corrected that problem.
 
Do Model T's seep or drip? After lots of work, I've got mine where it just seeps. I've noticed in old photos at Ford Dealerships that there are drip pans under the Model T's even in the new car showrooms.
 
Tim - my ‘26 was dripping pretty bad out of the hole under the crank pulley. Turned out to be the cracked soldered joint of the front crankcase damn - a previous owner had JB Welded the seam which still looked good but had itself cracked between the damn and the JB Weld. I used black RTV sealant and it has held up well for over 5 years. Not a lot of leaks now, but I use a drip pan for the Ford-designed leak under the starter.
Nothing against JB Weld, but I think the T engine vibrated too much - the flexible sealant might be a better choice for small cracks.

39 Portlander - black RTV might be a Portland thing - I grew up in Libbytown near Tony’s Donuts. ☘️
 

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Tim - my ‘26 was dripping pretty bad out of the hole under the crank pulley. Turned out to be the cracked soldered joint of the front crankcase damn - a previous owner had JB Welded the seam which still looked good but had itself cracked between the damn and the JB Weld. I used black RTV sealant and it has held up well for over 5 years. Not a lot of leaks now, but I use a drip pan for the Ford-designed leak under the starter.
Nothing against JB Weld, but I think the T engine vibrated too much - the flexible sealant might be a better choice for small cracks.

39 Portlander - black RTV might be a Portland thing - I grew up in Libbytown near Tony’s Donuts. ☘️
on a sad note Tony"s Donuts closed a couple months ago but.....the Holy Donut makes a nice bacon cheddar donut if you stop back around these parts.

By the way Tim Ford where art thou:confused:
 
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