1926 model T need help with starting

R

Ramrod2624

Junior Member
Hi im new to Model T's but have been lurking around here for awhile learning.
Im trying to start my motor afterinstaling it. I know it runs becuase I had it test run on a stand.
I have new wiring, rebuilt coils from the coilman, new comutator,rebuilt the carb (altough I hope I did it right) I set the comutator at 2.5 with the gauge but dont seem to be getting it to fire off. how do I troubleshoot this? im kinda at a lost with what I should test and how.
your input is appreacted, im having fun learning all I can about T's
 
GOT SPARK? A good hot wire to the coil box terminal and a GOOD ground to the block will eliminate a ton of in betweens... ws
 
Here's what I found today.first I didn't realize I need the coils to buzz when the switch is on. Checked power and have voltage to the bottom of the coil, then I checked the commutator and shorted each one to ground and got spark. But I was not getting the coils to buzz. I cranked the motor over slowly by hand and found that I only get #4 cylinder to fire. Pulled the coils out of the box, ( boy are they in there tight)! Checked to make sure all contacts where ok (is there a trick to getting themcoilsmout of the box) put the coils back in and same thing. So I'm looking at this and wonder to myself if the block needs to be grounded to the frame. As yachtsman bill says ground. Guess I will run out and get a ground strap and see if this helps.
Any other thought?
 
If there's enough ground between engine and frame to fire one, I expect there's enough to fire all. I'd check continuity through the coil box, wiring, and timer. Fire on one cylinder and not others would make me suspect the timer.
 
Since you have a 26, the coil box is on the head. With the key on, short the timer connection on the coil box to ground on the head with a long screw driver. Do this with each coil and make sure each buzzes. If you position the screwdriver about a 1/4 inch from the corresponding spark plug connection on the coil box while grounding the timer connection, you can see what spark is going to the cylinder.
 
That would work, BUT, the timer grounds are on the top edge of the coilbox just below the rain gutter, and hard to mannipple-ate. Make sure the timer wires are not contacting the coil box cover as well. Id connect one at a time with an alligator clip and test the plugs individually. Chances are the timers really dirty inside, a broken roller, or the wires on the timer are loose or broken from timer movement. If theres a brass dust washer UNDER the timer, shiest can that... its a source of a bad ground. You can also check the timer case to block for a good ground while you are at it; free of paint etc.
Id also suggest if the timer is off the motor, check each roller contact for grounding through the fiber ring, but if one coil fires its probably good. Its a coil to ground problem, honest... ws
 
Ok so I figured it out today! It looks like the roller on the timer was sticking and not hitting properly, made a few adjustments and she fired off! Problem now is I am seeing a bit of water leaking from the back of the head by the fire wall. Guess I should change the head gasket anything else while I'm there? I still need to adjust the transmission bands I installed. Also see that the radiator has a small leak at the bottom that will need to be fixed.
Thanks you guys are great!
 
Best dang leak sealer east or west of the Mississippi! ws

2ldkqdk.jpg
 
Well, between you, me, and the ILLUMINATAE across the hall... yes. It takes two into a hot radiator in the spring followed by a 5 mile drive. Ive got a gusher, and with a FRESH motor on a 5 mile wide open run followed by a fast shut down, never gets over 175 on the moto-meter. Also, I NEVER ADD A DROP of water all summer, but then again, mine doesn't leak a drop of oil either. Hmmm. Mustve done something wrong! No water pump either! ws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucqfcW1hrTk

This is the very first run after a full rebuild.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sL948Cak2I

I did loosen it up a bit with no plugs tho... as tite as it was it still DOES NOT OVERHEAT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2UPuhMxdWA
 
BTW... those need to be Grade AA Wisconsin eggs. Havent researched any others yet! It will work for the headgasket too.
On pulling the coils; I grab the post that holds the upper set if points with pliers and pull straight up. TIGHT YES, FORCE NO. Don't be a knucklehead and use a screwdriver as a lever. While they are out check the contacts for being tight on the wires, and clean etc... ws
 
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