1914 Still Won't Start, Back Aches!

E

Ed in Maine

Well-known member
About a month ago I posted the problems that I am having with this car. After changing plugs, carb, checking spark at each plug I drained the gas tank and filled with fresh gas and still no success. The car will occasionally fire once or twice but never runs. It ran good last fall.

Today I pulled three of the plugs and checked the compression by feel in each cylinder. With no. 4 I can turn the crank with virtually no change in resistance. With no. 2 and 3, I can tell I am in the compression stroke but it is not much. No. 1 feels a bit more normal. Obviously with all four plugs in place it is a bit of an effort to turn the car over especially when you are a 70 year old weakling!

I have never done much engine work on previous restorations, I always sent the engines out. Does it make sense to pull the cylinder head and do a valve job. The engine is quiet when it runs, no bearing problems and it does not smoke. Is this job within the capability of the weekend mechanic? Will I have to remove the wood panel firewall to get access to the rear cylinder head bolts?

What should I order to make the job as easy as possible? I keep telling myself that this is a hobby, have fun with it but it is more fun to be driving than laying underneath the Model T! Thanks for your input. Ed
 
You will need to find the cause for the loss of compression, corn gas tends to gum things up and possibly you have some valves stuck open, or rings stuck. first I would suggest taking all the plugs out and spraying something like WD-40 all around inside the cylinders. don't be afraid to use up a can of the stuff. Turn the crank some while doing this. let it set for a day or so and then re-check to see if it has had an effect. you may also be able to tap down stuck open valves with a dowel through the plug openings, not sure on a T but I have done it on my A. Good luck, if that doesn't work remove the head. you don't need to remove anything bodywise to get it off.
 
A side story for T's that will start: I had a '16 T put away for the winter and when spring came I choked it and spun the crank 2-3 times then went to the cab and turned the key and it started without even turning the crank. This car had not run for a good 6 months.
 
I have pulled my T in neutral and use high gear to start. I fineally did put a starter on my 14,11,&24 and never regreted doing that.
 
Ed you don't mention pressures so I assume you have no compression gauge. Get one. And a helper. Remove all the plugs. Open the throttle and choke fully. Attatch the gauge to the #1 cylinder and crank it over at least 5 to 7 times. WRITE THE PRESSURE DOWN. Don't rely on memory. Repeat with #'s 2-3- & 4. Go back to #1. Add about a teaspoon of oil to the cyl before attatching the gauge and repeat the process. The oil will seal the rings for a short time. If the pressure goes up the rings are worn. If it doesn't go up it USUALLY means bad/ burned valves. DO NOT pull the head before doing a comp. test. You won't know what's actually causing low compression until you do. Hopefully it's the valves. They can be done with the engine in the car.
 
Guys, thank you very much for your excellent comments. Sounds like there is still hope that this will not be a major deal (maybe valves stuck open). Is there a site on the internet that would take me through the procedure of refurbishing the valves. Also, for a Model T that has to be cranked, what is the minimum acceptable compression value, what is considered normal? Thank you again, Ed
 
Some guys will go as high as 60. Personal experience is in the 45-50 range which I consider quite good. When you get down to the 25-30 range you'll get hard starting & low power conditions. If you're getting dead zero a stuck open valve is commonly the answer. You might be able to free them through the valve cover. If that does happen to be the case and you get them freed up fresh oil and a good run could keep them going. Just check, check, check before you start pulling stuff and ask questions.
 
When you do get it going a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in the gas tank will help keep the valve stems and rings from sticking.
 
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