1914 Low Compr. - Cylinder Head Removed

E

Ed in Maine

Well-known member
Today I removed the cylinder head. What a surprise, most of the head bolts were not tight. I could have removed all of them with a six inch open end wrench! The cylinder head wasn't stuck on, I lifted it off easily without using a putty knife. I caught this defect just in time, two cylinders had minor indications of water leakage. The pistons are not dead tight in the cylinders because I can see a tiny amount of movement when I move them with my fingers but the cylinder walls look very good and there is no ridge at the top. The cylinders are marked .030. I think the cylinders are good enough.

Before I quit today, I removed one intake and one exhaust valve. The keepers are a tiny pin. Both valves had good seats, no missing metal. The valve guide holes were smooth and tight. The intake valve seat was shiny when wiped with a rag. The exhaust valve seat was dark but smooth all around. I think I will proceed as follows pending any comments from the "barn."

1. With fine compound, lap all valves.
2. Put in new valve springs
3. Get a set of new head bolts and a new head gasket.

It looks like I got lucky. I think the car will run better than it ever has. What is the correct torque value for the head bolts. Thanks for all your input. Ed
 
I have never seen a Model T with a ridge in the cylinders. Torque to 50 lbs and run it. Then recheck as often as you can till it doesn't move anymore.
 
I'd like to know what you find on that near zero compression cyl Ed. #4 I think it was. Looking good so far though.
 
Wire wheel the old bolts, and tap and clean the block threads... 7/16 NC. Use never sieze on the bolts and the gasket. Make sure the water and "steam" holes are clean. Were the valves the two piece design??? The old lug/ spark plug wrench is 12 inches long for a reason; pull it down with 50 lbs on the wrench and youve got 50 foot pounds on the bolts. Start in the center and work out. ws
 
Go into each head bolt hole with an awl and loosen up the crud that builds up in the bottom of the holes then blow out with compressed air. DON"T FAIL TO DO THIS!!!! the crud clogs the holes stopping the bolts from pulling the head down and can cause the threads to pull out of the block. There is a proper sequence to tightening the bolts. It is listed on page 33 of the Macs catalog and I believe it comes with the modern style head gasket they sell. Part # T3002M. Use a torque wrench. Torque to 55 Lbs. Run the engine until it heats up then let it cool overnight. When cool re-torque to 55 Lbs. Check it again after 500 miles. Don't guess at it. It's not worth it. I repeat: do not fail to clean out the head bolt holes!!!
 
Thank you again for all your input especially the cleaning of the holes. The #4 cylinder was the one that showed some minor water leakage into the cylinder. You could wipe off the rust with a rag and solvent. I think its problem was a bad gasket seal either into the water jacket or the adjacent cylinder. The valves were the one piece design. They are in good condition. I will drop a straight edge on the cylinder head to check for any warping. I will let you all know when I get it running again. Ed
 
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