19 gauge sheet steel

RDVAARK

Member
Other than purchasing new, or used Model A parts,is there a source for 19 ga.(.0418") sheet steel. Washing machines use everything but, roadkills aren't a steady supply. What other applications are there? metal shelving? truck body parts? Chinese furniture? I'm learning to TIG and don't want to waste new material. At my skill level equal thicknesses work best(18ga. to 20ga. is doable, but not ,to me , repeatable or "right". I had a line on a 1947 Int"l well rig, but would have had to take the whole thing at scrap price to get some rusty parts.All the abandoned vehicles around here(suburban western Ct.) don't yield much. Please offer some creative useful suggestions.
I'm a log time lurker, trying to be a new poster.
 
19 gauge is largely gone from manufacturing these days. It is an odd gauge that hasn't been used in automobile manufacturing in many years and most metal things are constructed with lighter gauge steel. I don't think it is available anywhere anymore.
 
I recently purchased some 18 gauge new from onlinemetals.com. You can buy online and pick up at their Wallingford warehouse.
 
A person should look for the type of steel they will end up using for their projects. 1008 commercial grade cold rolled steel is fairley easy to source. The draw quality is a little harder to source since folks that use it usually buy in large quantity.

An outfit sells small sizes on flea-pay in several gauges but it's all commercial grade.
 
19 ga makes nicer patches than 20..imho
Closer to original albeit it was identified as “20”…specs have changed!!
 
Ford had there own rolling mill at the Rouge so they could roll it to any thickness they wanted to.They seem to stay fairly close to American Standard gauge on most of their stuff. I would find the gauge that is closest to the original thickness. It butt welds a lot better if it's close to the same thickness.

This link will likely be temporary but the seller is locoststeel and offers free shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638737997...+clieSRtby8EJudBWWfshE64Tg==|tkp:BFBMhoSrkN5g
 
Other than purchasing new, or used Model A parts,is there a source for 19 ga.(.0418") sheet steel.

One millimetre is 0.0394", only 0.0024" different. Sheets of cold rolled 1mm steel are readily available in any metric country FWIW.
 
Might be more beneficial to work on the welding skills and machine settings, with TIG you should be able to weld a razor blade to an anchor without too much trouble :)
 

Attachments

  • 1608618178244.jpg
    1608618178244.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 91
Thanks,some interesting info. I always have a mike and caliper handy, often stopping and looking a metal objects that seem available. The old well drilling rig had an intact Continental Red Seal power unit with lots of guards and boxes on the rig. The truck may have had 19 ga. in the body but was pretty rusted and patched where In could reach to measure. Danbury Ct. has gotten a Metal Supermarket- cuts and drops coming soon , half sheets on special order, no shipping,'competitive' pricing. I agree about sharpening welding skills being most important, but am always most comfortable with using the exact material for practice- whether machining,welding, bumping dents or finishing. I'm a mechanical engineer, but have spent most of the last sixty years as a jack of all trades mechanic,plumber, electrical installer, and most enjoyably toolmaker and prototype machine and jig and toolmaker. Often the geniuses incharge have had a lucky day in the patent office, but the real world with real material doesn't always prove cooperative. My first choice in material would be old body parts for sheet metal correct gauge,temper, finished surface and a 'relaxed state of aging after being worked into shape'. Metal has a memory, I believe, and old body parts seem more manageable to me. But body parts of what? old Fords? Old machine cabinets? Should I look for something specific, like Ford products 1948 or earlier? The 1mm. similarity to 19ga excellent info, I'd forgotten something something so obvious. What about old VW carcasses? Computer acting strange, more later. Thanks.
 
Making patches for replacing panels on exterior of a car can be problematic unless you have tools and skills. They are contoured and little is ever just flat. English wheels, bead rollers, shot bags, shrinker-stretcher, and more are often required. And the ability to use them.
I have found needed contours on scrapped cars from hoods, tops, trunks and sides. Make a template of what you need and go searching!
It is getting harder to find old bone yards due to zoning and environmental.
 
Old Blue Oval,: scrap contoured metal from old cars-absolutely! Any favorite donors? I have a box of (kitchen) cabinet grade plywood in the truck for lucky occasions when things are found. Maybe getting OT, but Trev's Blog on u-tube does a lot of this- signs, dashes,compound curved door patches, etc.. I once made an cute little
enclosed motorcycle trailer using top corners from two identical refrigerator doors to pop rivet flat sheets to make rounded corners on the roof (sides of roof bent to follow edges of corner pieces).
By the way, my user name was from the shop dog in 1960, when I got my present 1928 A tudor. I was 12. More some day.
 
I have used as thick as 16 Gauge for small patch panes, and with sanding and grinding it comes about the right thickness. Plus it's easier to weld with my MIG since I don't have a TIG.
Terry
 
RD
It will surprise what contours can found. Using a X-Y axis lots is on the cars. Once you get into mid 80’s and after, the steel can get funky…..bad alloys for our uses. It’s been a number of years since I’ve cannibalized sheet metal….I make my own these days. We were using pre-1966 we found. Stay away from imports as they have funky metal way back!

Terry
Can’t imagine doing body skins with 16…..
If it works …do it!
 
Model A used it on the gas tanks but then the gas tank formed a structural part of the car too. modern cars use different steel alloys for more strength in lighter gauges where it is required. The stuff is hard too so it has some heat treatment as well. A lot more aluminum is used by some manufacturers. Car body steel is closer to 22 gauge in the modern era of the 60s & 70s. A lot of those cars have already been scrapped with exception to the popular models.
 
Last edited:
A master custom car builder that I knew here in Detroit back in the 70's was constantly scouring the auto scrap yards for 40's - 50's vintage cars with curvaceous panels. Cut, assemble and butt weld, built some amazing custom bodies... no English wheel required.
Joe B
 
When I was working in electro-mechanical design, we were told to use even gauge numbers only. Nobody wanted to be bothered with the odd numbers. But, if you're rolling your own sheet steel, anything goes.
 
RD
It will surprise what contours can found. Using a X-Y axis lots is on the cars. Once you get into mid 80’s and after, the steel can get funky…..bad alloys for our uses. It’s been a number of years since I’ve cannibalized sheet metal….I make my own these days. We were using pre-1966 we found. Stay away from imports as they have funky metal way back!

Terry
Can’t imagine doing body skins with 16…..
If it works …do it!

NO! I can't either! However, I have made patches from 18Ga fit the bottom of the door. When I first got my anvil, I resurfaced it on my friend's Bridgeport and it made such screeching sounds, I only took three passes of .020 and decided for friendship's sake not to take any more. So it left a slight belly in the anvil. That belly was just right for the curvature of a model A door. I show it in my pics, My A. That was 18 gauge sleet that I made the patch from. It was just dumb luck that it worked out. Sometimes you win one!
Terry
 
Back
Top