16 inch wheels

All of the '28 (except AR) through '35 wire wheels bolt right on to the mechanical hubs/drums. You cannot run solid wheels on the mechanical hubs/drums or wire wheels on the later ('40-'48) hydraulic hubs/drums without adapters.

Charlie Stephens

Charlie, I disagree. The mounting flange around the center of the brake drum on a model A is much smaller that that on a 1935 drum. Therefore the center part of the rim has nothing to seat on.
Speedway has the adapter you need. In days gone by I have seen piston rings spot welded to drums to provide a seat.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1928-35-Ford-Wire-Wheel-Center-Support,5846.html
 
Charlie, I disagree. The mounting flange around the center of the brake drum on a model A is much smaller that that on a 1935 drum. Therefore the center part of the rim has nothing to seat on.
Speedway has the adapter you need. In days gone by I have seen piston rings spot welded to drums to provide a seat.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1928-35-Ford-Wire-Wheel-Center-Support,5846.html
Chris,
You read to fast. The last part of my post says "You cannot run solid wheels on the mechanical hubs/drums or wire wheels on the later ('40-'48) hydraulic hubs/drums without adapters." I chose to call the spacers "adapters" because they do more than space, they provide support and adapt the wheel to the hub. To fine tune my statement I probably should have said "should not" instead of "cannot" because you can bolt them on and run them until you have problems.

Here is a post that illustrates the problem the spacers (adapters) solve: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1286293&posted=1#post1286293

Charlie Stephens
 
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Have not had my 16s off since they were put on by someone else. Not sure if I have spacers. What happens spacer not used? Symptoms?
When you remove the rims you may find cracks starting to form in the lug nut holes. I don't think I would want to wait until what happens next.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Charlie Stevens. Your post on your link says "The wire wheels from ‘28 (I am not sure about the AR wheels) through ‘35 are designed to mount on a surface that has 2 levels." What you don't say is that the circumference of this level on 1935 rims is larger than that used on a Model A.
 
Charlie Stevens. Your post on your link says "The wire wheels from ‘28 (I am not sure about the AR wheels) through ‘35 are designed to mount on a surface that has 2 levels." What you don't say is that the circumference of this level on 1935 rims is larger than that used on a Model A.
I didn't realize that it was, thanks for the info. Are you trying to say the '35 wheels require a different adapter/spacer from the other wire wheels? I don't believe that is correct.

Charlie Stephens
 
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I looked at a wonderful Model A coupe:
It had 18" rims front & rear. In the rear, the rims
were widened about 3" .
 
1932 18-inch wheels look better in my opinion. The improvement in the ride is fantastic.
 

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I pick up 4. 16s wheels. Was thinking about going 600x16 on the front and650x16 on the read with 4inch drop front and reverse eye loop rear spring. Drop the hole car but still have a stock look.
 
I pick up 4. 16s wheels. Was thinking about going 600x16 on the front and650x16 on the read with 4inch drop front and reverse eye loop rear spring. Drop the hole car but still have a stock look.


My 1930 Tudor has 750x16 rear and 600x16 front with stock axle. I am in the process of changing front axle to give a 2" drop. New rear spring from Posies will drop the rear 2".

 
I like the look. Brings back memories. In the mid 60's, I drove the family '31 Model a coupe to high school. It had 16" steel rims with chrome baby moons. Before me driving it, Dad drove it 30+ miles to work - one way. I still have the car. :)

no baby moons (too expensive) but same deal on my town sedan.



Radial tires are the best way to ruin a vintage car... if you want to drive a modern car just drive a modern car... the reason you buy or build a vintage car is to feel and look like it was back when it was in its day. Don't get butthurt its just my opinion.

I would agree if only roads and traffic conditions could be re-created too. New 19" radials are pretty close in appearance to originals.


After a lot of consideration going every which way but loose, I settled on Coker Radials, 550R19. Couldn't be happier.

That's what I did. Had to change from 21" to 19" wheels.


FWIW here's some pictures of my car when I got it with solid 16" wheels and no w with 19" radials.
 

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