'13 Model T starting

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fords

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I am new to the Ford Barn and look forward to this whole thing.
My 1913 T all of a sudden stopped starting and is kicking back on the hand crank at the 11 o'clock position. Before this -it would start fine and would usually start at the 12:30 position on the hand crank. I just ordered new plugs(Champions) and will set them to .25. Any other input from anyone would be much appreciated.
 
Thanks for the reply. I did not tell the whole staory - Based on what I have been reading the last week is the Spark lever (timing) should be fully retarded. Before my starting issues I have fully advanced the lever and left the throttle at idle and never had any problem starting. You are correct I will check timing and commutator connections.
Can I use the method of notches on crank gear at 3 and 9 o'clock position to set TDC or could you suggest a better/different method?
 
I am guessing you are using a battery to start on? You want it just past 3 and 9 just breaking over the top on your power stroke. If you are starting on battery push the spark lever all the way up. Disconnect the rod at the timer. Turn the key on, turn the timer counterclock wise a little or till it stops buzzing, then bring back clockwise till just starts buzzing. Turn the key off. Now bend the timer rod till it slips in the hole. That should have it where you need. Never start with the timer lever pulled down, you are making it fire before top dead center.
Pull the spark plugs and check that No 1 is on power stroke. Put your thumb on the hole and crank till you feel compression. Bring the piston all the way to the top and watch till it just starts down.
Be sure to leave the spark plugs lying on the head with the wires attached so you don't burn out the windings in the coils. You will not get shocked unless you touch the terminal while the plug is firing nor will you get shocked touching anything on the timer.
 
After you feel compression on #1, look at your crank pulley pin. When it's perfectly horizontal, you're at TDC. Just a little past that, as Red says, you set the timing as he described.


 

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Thanks Red and Steve, I will be home tomorrow and look forward to putting all your info and suggestions to work. I will let all you know what happens!!
 
Will I did everything I was told and got the car started and running!!! With spark lever fully up - battery switch on - there is BUZZ, move the lever 8 notches until Buzz stops - Throttle at 3 notches - Car hand starts beautifully and runs very well. I torque the head bolts and serviced other areas and had a great day of driving. Thanks !!
 
If you are starting on battery, there will be buzz with the spark lever up if the cylinder is in position to fire. Moving the spark lever down is not the correct way to start. The car should be started on battery with the lever all of the way up. It is easy to get a kickback and break an arm doing it incorrectly. Please be careful doing so this way.
 
OK let's get a few things straightened out here.
I own a 1919 non-starter T thus I always use the crank to start it.

This is how I have started the T since I was 15 years old - now close to 70

Key off - throttle 1/2 open - mixture at about 1 1/4 open - spark fully retarded - hand brake full back (you can block a wheel so it doesn't move forward if you want to be real safe)

Assuming at the gas is on - close the choke and give it a couple cranks
Note pull from about 7 o'clock to 11
It is always a good idea to make sure you don't wrap your thumb around the handle

Next I go to the drivers side of the vehicle and switch it to the battery making sure I have my free hand on the spark lever - if it sputters a bit I pull the spark down and many times I get a free start

Next I move the spark lever down a bit to see if it sputters. If it does I quickly move the lever down for a free start. This happens about 10% of the time

If it hasn't started I then place the spark lever in the full up position and pull the the crank a few time thru the 7 To 11 positions when it sputters I run to the spark lever and quickly pull it down

When it is cold I will do everything I have listed except I jack one rear wheel off the ground and leave the brake handle 1/2 way forward. I get a free start about 75% of the time when I jack a wheel. Once it is running I pull the brake handle back to stop the wheel and remove the jack
 
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