12v electrical help for newbie

luvmyclassics

luvmyclassics

Senior Member
My 1951 f1 is a true project car.
None of the gauges or anything of the electrical system is salvageable.

I am converting to a 12v system.

I am trying to replace all of the components to 12v.

Should I use a 12v voltage regulator? Does anyone make one that looks like the original?
Not sure this is the right way to go or just use 6v components and make the suggested conversions discussed on all of the threads.
 
If you are going to a 12 volt negative ground system, you should change everything to 12 volts. You can use a voltage drop unit to make the 6 volt gauges function and, you can get by using the 6 volt starter motor but, if you do, I would strongly recommend that you keep a few extra Bendix springs in the glove box. On my '51 F-1 I converted everything to 12 volt negative ground and used after-market 12 volt gauges. I run the OEM Generator and starter motor (both converted to 12 volt negative ground) with a 12 volt voltage regulator.
 
I have not had good luck with the Runtz volt drops. You have to put one on each gauge and they do fail. I have used the small regulator found on the back of the early Mustang dash panels and they work well. You can buy new ones from Napa Auto Parts or any Mustang parts dealer. One regulator services all the gauges.
 
The regulators tJ mentioned were used in all 57 and up Fords (til the 70's somewhere I think) so they are readily available.

Use a 12 Volt regulator. 56 and up Fords used them. They look pretty much the same, but there are differences.
 
How much amps do the individual gages draw ?
Would a 1.5a 7806 regulator survive ?
Thats 50c so not to much of an expense....
 
Was just thinking less wiring...
A diode or two in the path to ground and you trick the regulator to put out 7.2v a small heatsink if the output will be on the high side of the specs.
 
Go to a junk yard, find a '70-80's truck, pick-up or large truck. Get the gauges, senders and voltage reducers attached to the gauges. Disassemble your gauges carefully and install the new gauge movements in your old gauge cases. Will be a perfect fit. install with the voltage reducers in series with the power to each gauge. connect any senders (oil, wate)r and your gauge are all set for a 12V system
 
Except for 1956, Ford used 6 volt gauges until 1986. On 12 volt systems a cluster voltage regulator was used (CVR) of sometimes called an (IVR) instrument voltage regulator. Either way you say it the unit provides a pulsed 6 volt input to the gauges. Why people want to use Runtz or other aftermarket items is beyond me. Add all the cars and trucks made from the Model A up to 1985 and that is in the millions and the system worked very well. I worked for Ford dealers most of my career and when Ford went to the GM style magnetic gauges in 1986, we had headache after headache with the new style gauges. When I need a gauge replacement, I scrounge a boneyard and find A '70's T-bird, Ranchero or LTD II with the gauge pack. I change the face plate and needle of that unit with the early unit and drop it in. Works fine. When I upgrade a system to 12 volts, I go to NAPA and get a '59 Ford CVR run 12 volts in and run the pulsed 6 volts out per Henry and have seen no problems. The ammeter is an eddy current unit and will work somewhat okay if you use a lower output alternator. I it only designed to read 30 amps max. Here again, you can use the later amp gauge with the switched face plate and needle. But you would need to find out what the actual charging rates are so you can convert it in your mind as you drive. A rather long dissertation but I hope it helps.
 
Years back when I went 12vt. I used voltage drop on gauges. I also went with a one wire alternator and avoided a regulator all together. I had also added a/c and thermos controlled 12 vt. cooling fan. But if you want it to be a "looks stock" transformation you have been given a lot of good info.
Love this site...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top