$127.00 for a drill Bit!?

Keep an eye on ebay. That is what I did. They come up from time to time. Here are 3 for $23 each.

http://cgi.ebay.com/290552030043

This one is the correct size, but doesn't have the guide. You want the reamer to have a long guide in front of it, so that when you insert the reamer into the bottom bushing, the smooth guide reaches the top bushing, guiding the cutting flutes on the bottom bushing straight through, so you get a true ream.
 
Not having seen the reamer in question, I can only guess at the reason for the price.
Reaming king pins on any vehicle with an upper and lower bushing requires a pilot style
reamer to insure the alignment between the upper and lower bushing is dead on.
This alignment is very difficult to accomplished with a hone or short reamer.
The use of an adjustable reamer with a pilot extension will work if you know how to set it,
but you run the risk of ruining a bushing or two or settling for a poor fit while learning.

Regards
Art
 
If you belong to a Model A club (if not may want to join), someone in the club may have the tool and help you out. Otherwise a machine shop as mentioned is a good option.
 
Mustang said:
This alignment is very difficult to accomplished with a hone or short reamer.

Regards
Art
Click to expand...

This is why we are recomending a Sunnen Piston Pin Hone. These are made specifically to hone two holes and keep them in perfect alignment.

A piston pin is a LOT more critical then a Model A King Pin. The results using a Sunnen Piston Pin Hone are outstanding and much better then a Pilot Reamer.

If you can not find someone with a Sunnen Piston Pin Hone, then you may be forced to use a pilot reamer.

This is what I would do.

Chris
 
I have the King-pin reamer mentioned, and have used them on Model A's. But that being said, with a machinist/mechanical/automotive background, I can sure see where the recommendations from the other Fordbarners to have the spindles machine honed at a automotive repair shop is the way to go, for two reasons that I see. Surface finish and maintaining bushing bores parralel. Use Locktite on the bushings before taking them to the automotive machine shop for honing. Take the king pins with you, or a least one.

Might be cheaper in the long run. With the economy the way it is today....fast in the door and fast out makes for a quick buck.
 
OK, makes sence on the kinpins, what about the front brake shaft bushings? These are a little over 1/2" do the machine shops hone these too, or is a reamer OK?
 
Leathernek said:
Hey Guys,
I was fixin' to order some parts for my front end rebuild and noticed that the front spindle bushings included in the kit need reaming. Ok, no big deal...until I noticed the price of the reaming tool.....you guessed it $127! I was shocked! Anyways, my question is.....Is there a way of reaming the front spindle/kingpin bushings another way? Or is there any "tricks" that I can use to avoid buying that high dollar reamer?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I sprung for the reamer and was happy I did! Only took a few minutes to do both spindles! I have another front end to do soon and will have the tool and not have to waste any time. I'm sure I'll do another few front ends befor I die, so I think it was worth it.
 
I bought all of the reamers that Brattons offered back in the ninties and they have really come in handy. I have done several front end rebuilds. Ford used reamers, the Ford service departments used reamers. I was taught that reamers cut a glass smooth surface while hones are abrasive and leaves minute grooves and when the high spots wear off the clearance will have to increase, this makes good sense to me. We hone the cylinders in our engines so that when the roughness wears smooth , the rings will be seated. I will continue to use my reamers and consider them a necessity.
 
I bought a complete set of adjustable reamers from a used tool store for $100. They do a very good job and have saved me a lot of time from running around each time I need to size a hole.
 
I bought a set of adjustable reamers from Harbor Freight a few years ago for around eighty nine bucks, they are made in China but they are useful in fitting some reproduction parts . I have used the larger adjustable reamers to enlarge intake manifolds to model B size.
 
Leathernek, I have done these for several people here on Fordbarn and others. I get 75$ to clean the spindle, remove and install the bushings and hone them to fit. I also index the pins to the spindle so the fit is correct.
 
I have asked this before with no comments so I'll try again. Reguarding the issue of honing vs reaming the king pin bushings and which is better. Honing is required for extremely close fitting parts like piston pins but they run in an oil bath and are constantly lubricated with comparatively light weight oil. King pins are not lubricated with oil but with grease and then not constantly. It would seem that the slight chatter marks from reaming would be pockets that would allow grease to get in and hold it resulting in better long term lubrication. The highly polished tight fit the honing produces would seem to leave almost no way for grease to get to or remain in the bushing which would result in faster wear at least initially. Comments welcome.
 
First consider the conditions: The bushings are always under high pressure. What is it about one square inch top and bottom of contact with well matched bushings. Even at that the radius of the two diameters off around a thou or so there can not be a perfect contact.

The high spots will have an extremely high pressure due to the reduced surface area. The grease would not be able to prevent metal to metal contact. I would also think the high spots would act as wipers removing grease from the surface. You will get rapid wear until it is burnished flat and the grease can create an even film.

With a honed surface you get two parallel surfaces and an increased surface area removing the point contact surface. The honing process will leave what we see as a smooth surface, but it is really loaded is microscopic scratch for the oils in the grease to move around. The grease is also designed to stay in place under the heavy loads.

Where you might get confused is in the need for scraping on precision surfaces. The scraping leaves some scratches in what otherwise could be a perfectly flat surface. Two perfectly flat surfaces moving on each other would scrape away the oil. By creating the little pockets some oil will stay behind. Typically the pressures per inch are much less then what you see in the king pins. The king pins need a high pressure lubricant, not oil.

I hope that all makes sense.
 
I've found several original old reamers for that very job at swap meets. Box says it does from like 28 - 48 or somthing like that. You might look around at a swap meet for one. Think I paid about $25 for mine.
 
Re: Did Ford ream? or hone?

Don Turley said:
Since no one answered, I thought I would bring this thread back up.

Does anyone know whether Ford "reamed" or "honed" the spindle bushings during manufacturing?:confused:
Click to expand...

Don I certainly don't know the answer but I'm going to guess that Ford had a method to install them that required little or no fitting afterward. Again, just a guess on my part.
 
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