12 Volt High Torque Starter

J

jeepguy1948

Well-known member
Anybody have good (or bad) experiences with 12V High Torque Starters? I know some are junk but I don't know which ones. I don't want anything made in China!
 
I installed a Powermaster high torque starter on my '38 with the original flathead last October. It was about $250.00 from Jegs. Although it's only been a few months I'm happy with it and would recommend it.

Pat
 
Do these starters come 6 volt or only 12?
If 12 only, why not simply convert the field windings to 12 v for the same results and original appearances. Even if they are 6 volts, I see no need for them. Although my cars are 12 volts, my reason for changing was nothing to do with reluctant starting. These cars were fine for 80-90 years on 6 v and none of these starters.
JMHO.
 
To answer Synchro's question as best I can (and although mine is not a "Hot Rod") it does have some modifications. I put the battery in the truck bed because it was always in my way and hard to get at as well so the wiring has farther to go. Electronic ignition has some is set up with some advance at 0 RPM. High compression head. I don't have to justify what I am doing but I thought I would try to explain. Although I respect those who want to keep their Model A the way Henry built it, I want to make it mine.
 
'28 RPU said:
To answer Synchro's question as best I can (and although mine is not a "Hot Rod") it does have some modifications. I put the battery in the truck bed because it was always in my way and hard to get at as well so the wiring has farther to go. Electronic ignition has some is set up with some advance at 0 RPM. High compression head. I don't have to justify what I am doing but I thought I would try to explain. Although I respect those who want to keep their Model A the way Henry built it, I want to make it mine.
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You're right, you don't have to justify what you have done. I feel the same way about what I have done to mine and I get a sense of satisfaction when others marvel at what we do in our A.
Mine are all 12 volts and I have converted the starters on them all to run on 12 volts. I reconfigure the field windings so they have a resistance 4 times the original. That drops the voltage getting to the armature and the whole thing runs like a 6 volt starter would on about 8 or 9 volts. I have retained the original appearance (not a top priority to me but I prefer it) while getting all the torque I could ever need without destroying the starter by running it on 12 volts without modification. The conversion cost next to nothing but a bit of time but I have developed a few tricks.
Believe me, even a starter with a 5/8" shaft will bend the shaft if you run it on 12 volts without modification. I've straightened too many of them.
 
8 years and 15k miles, I'd say that's a pretty good track record. Synchro, I appreciate your input. I had a 90 years young member of our local mafca chapter planning to build me a starter just as you describe. Sadly, his daughter passed suddenly and unexpectedly and he is going to be awhile getting back to his shop.
 
'28 RPU said:
8 years and 15k miles, I'd say that's a pretty good track record. Synchro, I appreciate your input. I had a 90 years young member of our local mafca chapter planning to build me a starter just as you describe. Sadly, his daughter passed suddenly and unexpectedly and he is going to be awhile getting back to his shop.
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I guess you would have to make allowances for an excuse like that.
 
I put one in my Tudor. The flywheel was moving forward and I did not feel like pulling the engine. I tapped it back. The gear drive starter gear drives from the front,so does not push ring gear back.

It meshes with the ring gear first and then turns. Not the shock of a bendix hitting the ring gear.

That being said I had a stock starter that gave me many years of service with no problems.

John
 
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