.100 or .125 bore without sonic testing the block? How Safe?

Can either Pete or Riff Raff include the link for that sonic tester on Ebay? I tried putting in the number, but nothing came up.

Thanks! I'd really appreciate it.
 
clean up the bores and sleeve it. Its only a briggs & stratton with 7 more cylinders with
forgiving low compression then drive it......................
 
Tim Ayers said:
Can either Pete or Riff Raff include the link for that sonic tester on Ebay? I tried putting in the number, but nothing came up.

Thanks! I'd really appreciate it.
Click to expand...


A caution on ebay sonic testers! There is a caution on some ads: "cannot measure cast iron due to its big crystalloid composition". This is on item # 202561250938, which appears identical to many other listings.
Another thing to consider is that most have a flat surface probe that does not completely match the curve of a cylinder wall. I found differing opinions on whether that is a problem or not.
Other testers on ebay say they do work on cast iron.
 
40 Deluxe said:
A caution on ebay sonic testers! There is a caution on some ads: "cannot measure cast iron due to its big crystalloid composition". This is on item # 202561250938, which appears identical to many other listings.
Another thing to consider is that most have a flat surface probe that does not completely match the curve of a cylinder wall. I found differing opinions on whether that is a problem or not.
Other testers on ebay say they do work on cast iron.
Click to expand...

That is something to look for.

As far as the curved or irregular surface, these gauges need to be used with a medium between the transducer face and the material to be tested.
Something gooey and stiff like lithium grease or water pump grease.
Butter will work. Peanut butter will work..

As far as finding them on eBay, just type in the search, "ultrasonic test gauge".
 
Pete said:
That is something to look for.

As far as the curved or irregular surface, these gauges need to be used with a medium between the transducer face and the material to be tested.
Something gooey and stiff like lithium grease or water pump grease.
Butter will work. Peanut butter will work..

As far as finding them on eBay, just type in the search, "ultrasonic test gauge".
Click to expand...

Thank you! I wonder if electrical wire pulling goop will work
 
Or you go to the nearest medical supply place and get some ultrasonic gel...
I buy mine in 2l. plastic boxes.
Or you know someone at the hospital that gives you a cup...they use large amounts...
 
Riff Raff said:
One more question: if the machining process hit a thin point and exposes the water jackets, can a sleeve save the block or it will be ruined?
I've heard that some diesel engines use wet sleeves, could that be a solution in that case?
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe you can use a sleeve. Bore the engine as little as possible.
 
Thanks everyone for your responses!
After thinking a lot about it, I believe I will have the engine sleeved and use the pistons I already have.
I really think Pete's idea of buying a tester is great, but after the cost of the tester and the new pistons, my budget will be over the limit (considering the taxes I will have to pay, which more then doubles the price of each thing).
As much as I would love to go big bore, I think a stock flathead is better then no flathead, right?
Thanks again, and all the best to everyone!
 
I think it's a reasonable cost effective way to approach it with how you explained your circumstances.

I don't think it's a bad anyways. Not to say other issues are not at hand down the road. Any flathead ford is better then no flathead ford.






.
 
After a lot of thinking, I decided to put my faith in Ol' Ron's words and went with the .125 Egge three ring pistons.
It was actually cheaper than sleeving all bores, and easier than finding the correct rings for the pistons I had.
Long story short: machine shop said all bores turned out OK, and I am very happy to have a big bore engine.
Can't wait to see it running.
Thanks for everyone’s advice!

But, machine shop had more bad news for me:
I bought an EAB cam and was hoping to use it, but turned out the journals have uneven wear: The first journal has std size and the last one has almost .030 wear.
Can I buy .030 cam bearings and use it or do I have a bad cam?
If it can be saved, where can I buy the .030 bearings?
 
Sleeve it ,bore it and use the pistons you already have. You won't notice any noticeable performance difference if you go with the big bore option. And, like you say, good flat head blocks aren't plentiful where you are and costs of building an engine are so high. You don't need huge cubic inches to have a nice running flatty unless you're going to Bonneville. Not worth the risk or expense.
You answered your question when you said:
"Building this engine has been a long time dream and if I ruin this block I don’t think I can afford a new one, so I really need to be on the safe side.
Thanks!"
 
19Fordy, you are right, but it turned out to be a lot cheaper to just go with the big bore.
Besides, the only sleeves I could find would need almost the same .125 bore to fit, so I thought I'd take the chance.
Any thoughts on the cam problem?
 
Riff Raff said:
19Fordy, you are right, but it turned out to be a lot cheaper to just go with the big bore.
Besides, the only sleeves I could find would need almost the same .125 bore to fit, so I thought I'd take the chance.
Any thoughts on the cam problem?
Click to expand...

A few suggestions: If you must use it, send it to Pete or Delta cams to get the journals built up and resized.

Or, I think Tilden Technologies has an "improved" EAB cam they make or regrind. If you need a cam core for a regrind, I have a good 8RT cam I'd sell you cheap.

https://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/FlatheadPerformance.html
 
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