10 w oil ?

K

Kaptain Karl

Member
Just obtained a 1930 Model AA that has been sitting for 30+ years. The truck was restored and the engine rebuilt 30 years ago. The engine came with a letter on how to break in a rebuilt engine and 10w oil was the oil to use. The truck was driven enough to put on around 200 miles and then was stores for a while. I was going to change the oil to 30w but the old owner tells me that I have to keep running 10w. The only thing I can find is 10w hydrolic oil, seems to thin. What should I do?
 
Dont use the10w hyd oil.It is too light and doesnt have the added additives of automotive oil.If 200 miles on engine,then change to 15-40 which is a diesel oil,but is perfectly fine for gas enginesor use 20-50 oil.I get my oil in the large jug at Walmart.Change oil every 1,000 miles if no oil filter.Ghanging oil at 500 miles is a waste of oil & money as the cars are not operating in the conditions of80-85 years ago.JMO
 
If the truck has not been running for 30 years,I would pour the 1st quart of oil down the distributor hole & it will prelube the main & camshaft brgs.You will not have to retime the dist when you do this.
 
If it has not been run but 200 miles in 30 years, I would tear it down and inspect all the oil tubes for dried up oil and blockages.
 
Hi Kapt,
Welcome to the hobby! While James is certainly correct, I could offer you the following alternative: Drain the present oil into a clear plastic or glass container. Carefully observe the drain plug - is there sludge on the inside of it? Carefully put your pinky into the oil drain hole and try to wipe the bottom of the oil pan in the area. Are you picking up any sludge? If the oil is relatively clean, and if you pick up very little or no sludge, you can safely replace the oil drain plug and fill with 10 wt or 20-20W oil. Go to your NAPA store. If they haven't got it on the shelf, then they can get it for you within 48 hours. Do not use hydraulic fluid!!! This engine is 30 years old, run for 200 miles, and presumably used a modern oil at the time of its rebuilding. It may not be sludge-ridden...

In addition to the very good advice of Columbia above, concerning putting a quart down the distributor hole, one other piece of advice: remove the spark plugs and put several squirts of oil and kerosene mix into each cylinder - not too much! Then crank the engine by hand or with the starter to lube the cylinder walls, which could conceivably have a very light coating of rust on them. When the engine turns over freely, go ahead and start her up, but don't be surprised when she smokes a bit in the beginning. The smoke will disappear when the engine burns off that oil you put into the cylinders.

Don't let it get too hot or drive it over 40 mph for the next 300 miles, then go to a recommended 30 weight or multi-grade as suggested. Happy Motoring!

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www.burlingtoncrankshaft.com
 
If the engine was run only 200 miles, it is not really broken-in yet.

Best to use a non-detergent to complete break-in, SAE -20 or SAE 10, if you can find it.

Back in the late 1980's, when I was running a Fluid Drive Chrysler, and needed SAE 10 motor oil for the transmission and fluid coupling, Kendall was the only brand I could find it in then; perhaps they still make it.
 
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