10 spline coupler source?

redbeard

redbeard

Member
Hello,

The coupler on my 33 drive line is so worn out it moves 3/8" at the transmission end of the shaft. And that is with the pin still in place.

Needless to say I am trying to find a good coupler to replace it with, and since it gets welded to the drive shaft, I don't want to put on another
used up one.

I have used the after market ones in the past on my 41 rear end, and they wore out extremely fast. It seem to wear out faster than the original ford one.

I ended up finding a good original one for that rear end and never had a problem again.

So are there any suppliers out there that have a good coupler for the 10 spline pinion?

I heard that the Early Ford store was working on having them made, but I don't see it in their catalog.

Thanks
Dave
 
People cut the ends out of '33-'34 drive shafts to weld in the couplers to get a six spline configuration. I'll look to see if I have one somewhere. (I should have one.)

If your coupler is worn, what does the spline on the pinion look like??
 
PeteVS said:
People cut the ends out of '33-'34 drive shafts to weld in the couplers to get a six spline configuration. I'll look to see if I have one somewhere. (I should have one.)

If your coupler is worn, what does the spline on the pinion look like??
Click to expand...

The pinion is not as worn as some of the other ones I have around here.

Plus it is a factory 3.54 ring and pinion, so I am going to make the best of it.

I would like to start with the best coupler I can and see how that
fits the pinion.

Thanks for your help.

David
 
I have the splined ends that I removed from several '35-'36 tubular drive shafts that were made into lake pipe exhausts. The bungs removed from the pinion ends of these shafts have good internal splines that will fit a 10 spline pinion. One of these may work perfectly for what you are trying to accomplish.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
I have the splined ends that I removed from several '35-'36 tubular drive shafts that were made into lake pipe exhausts. The bungs removed from the pinion ends of these shafts have good internal splines that will fit a 10 spline pinion. One of these may work perfectly for what you are trying to accomplish.
Click to expand...

Yes, that would work perfect.

Are you willing to sell one?

Thanks
Dave
 
Yes, all have good internal splines. I will send you a picture when i get back home from Bonneville on Thursday.
 
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This is for any people still following this thread and for information about drive shaft and coupler problems. It is important to note that if you are experiencing an issue with the drive line on your car such as excessive coupler wear or the shearing of the coupler pin it is a sign that there is a problem with the alignment of your drive shaft. The driveshaft operates on a central axis thru the end of the transmission and the pinion snout. If these ends are not in the same alignment it creates a deflection in the drive shaft causing it to bow as it spins and the faster the spinning the more deflection. If you have a non stock drive shaft there are two issues that you must check to determine if the drive shaft runs true.

First is to determine that the pinion coupler is installed on center and square to the drive shaft u-joint spline.

Second is to determine that the torque tube section is also married together on center and that the torque tube flanges are square and parallel at each end.

The same observation is true for a stock torque tube, if you are experiencing sheared coupler rivets or excessive slop in the coupler it is a good sign that the vehicle was in an accident and the torque tube was bent. This is difficult to determine by eye but the coupler problem indicates that the shaft is not running true. The wear damage is caused by the force of drive shaft created as it attempts to spin on a central axis.

If you have any of these issues it requires further examination as replacing a coupler is not necessarily the problem.
 
I need to shorten a 34 set to use in my 32. I will check the driveshaft alignment by putting the shaft on the pinon and spinning it. I hope it turns true and doesn't wobble on the trans. end. I plan to shorten the torque tube near the trans end. I will put the driveshaft in it and move the rear end end from side to side. Hopefully the movement will be centered. The front bearing is probably not tight enough for this but at least I can check if one direction is tight.
 
Mr. Spadaro is absolutely correct.

Apron further inspection I discovered that my torque tube was bent

It did indeed put a bend it the drive shaft while rotating.

Luckily our local driveline shop was able to straighten it out and I am
now back on the road.

Thank you for the help.

And thanks Mr. Spadaro for explaining the details to help others on here

There is not a good source for these couplers folks so be aware of that
and hold on to the pieces if you are shortening a shaft or changing to 6 spline.

Cheers
 
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