10" clutch ID?

Kube

Kube

Super Moderator
Recently removed this plate from the back of a 59AB.
The flywheel appears to be stock. There are no extra holes drilled / tapped for this bolt pattern.
I can no longer recall how many clutch R&R's I've done. I'll state "many". I have never seen this bolt pattern / pressure plate.

The six holes are evenly spaced. Center to center is about 5 3/4".

So, any idea what I have here?

thanks...
 

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'49 '50 Mercury pressure plate. 10" Borg & Beck.
Commonly seen on 8ba's in early Fords.
 
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It does appear to be a Borg and Beck pressure plate found on 8CM Mercury engines. The issue is that the 8BA/8CM flywheels aren't compatible with 59 styled crankshafts. I'd be interested in how that flywheel came to that engine.
 
The flywheel could have been drilled to take it. It uses the same spline as early Ford if it has the right number stamped in the periphery of the center port where the fingers are. The late 51 thru 53 Merc had longer fingers due to the use of the 1-inch 10-spline input. The 49 thru early 51 still had the 1 3/8" 10-spline same as early Ford. The later type Mercury transmission had the new gears and an all new bell housing plus a different throw out bearing for late 51. The Borg & Beck numbers are different for them.

Let me know what the numbers are and I can tell if it's Mercury 8CM stuff. I send mine to Fort Wayne Clutch to get them rebuilt. The numbers are in the Hollander Interchange manual.
 
40cpe said:
It does appear to be a Borg and Beck pressure plate found on 8CM Mercury engines. The issue is that the 8BA/8CM flywheels aren't compatible with 59 styled crankshafts. I'd be interested in how that flywheel came to that engine.
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Lord knows, me too!
 
rotorwrench said:
The flywheel could have been drilled to take it. It uses the same spline as early Ford if it has the right number stamped in the periphery of the center port where the fingers are. The late 51 thru 53 Merc had longer fingers due to the use of the 1-inch 10-spline input. The 49 thru early 51 still had the 1 3/8" 10-spline same as early Ford. The later type Mercury transmission had the new gears and an all new bell housing plus a different throw out bearing for late 51. The Borg & Beck numbers are different for them.

Let me know what the numbers are and I can tell if it's Mercury 8CM stuff. I send mine to Fort Wayne Clutch to get them rebuilt. The numbers are in the Hollander Interchange manual.
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I'll look carefully once again tomorrow. i thought I had looked carefully earlier today. Perhaps not.

Just to add... this was in a running, driving '36 for well over a decade.
 
Kube said:
Recently removed this plate from the back of a 59AB.
The flywheel appears to be stock. There are no extra holes drilled / tapped for this bolt pattern.
I can no longer recall how many clutch R&R's I've done. I'll state "many". I have never seen this bolt pattern / pressure plate.

The six holes are evenly spaced. Center to center is about 5 3/4".

So, any idea what I have here?

thanks...
Click to expand...

Many of us know that even though an early, OR a late (8BA Ford/8CM Merc) flywheel will bolt onto any flathead crank, it is still imperative to use the flywheel that matches the block for the OPERATION of starter TO BE 100% SUCCESSFUL!

The OP did not note whether or not this came off of a "Known-to-run-GOOD" engine. In other words, even though it was glued-together that way doesn't necessarily mean that it worked GOOD that way!

Most folks know that you can swap a 4" Merc crank and rods into a "59" or earlier block, and it'll all work if you use a '48 and earlier flywheel. It's possible this guy didn't know about the differences between early and late flywheels and used the Merc flywheel & clutch 'cuz it was easy to glue-on, and 'cuz he had it laying there.

Coop

.
 
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V8COOPMAN said:
Many of us know that even though an early, OR a late (8BA Ford/8CM Merc) flywheel will bolt onto any flathead crank, it is still imperative to use the flywheel that matches the block for the OPERATION of starter TO BE 100% SUCCESSFUL!

The OP did not note whether or not this came off of a "Known-to-run-GOOD" engine. In other words, even though it was glued-together that way doesn't necessarily mean that it worked GOOD that way!

Most folks know that you can swap a 4" Merc crank and rods into a "59" or earlier block, and it'll all work if you use a '48 and earlier flywheel. It's possible this guy didn't know about the differences between early and late flywheels and used the Merc flywheel & clutch 'cuz it was easy to glue-on, and 'cuz he had it laying there.

Coop

.
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I can only hazard a guess here... most likely this was "laying around" and as such, utilized.
This vehicle has been operated just fine for at least the past dozen years. Crank? No idea what's in there.
 
Just to add some more perspective. About the only issue I know of, is that when you use a late flywheel on an earlier engine the starter engagement can sometimes be a problem. Folks have mentioned that due to the ring-gear being in a different location, that this issue can happen . . . and I'm sure it has.

Personally, I've never had the problem and I run a Fidanza billet aluminum flywheel (49-53) on my 42 Merc engine. It seems that in the case of Kube, the later setup has been in the car for many years - without any issues.

From a clutch and clutch-disc perspective, I can't see an issue. Whether it is a Borg and Beck clutch plate or a Ford Long plate really shouldn't make any difference. They both do the same thing and the throw-out bearing actuates them in the same manner.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Just to add some more perspective. About the only issue I know of, is that when you use a late flywheel on an earlier engine the starter engagement can sometimes be a problem. Folks have mentioned that due to the ring-gear being in a different location, that this issue can happen . . . and I'm sure it has.

Personally, I've never had the problem and I run a Fidanza billet aluminum flywheel (49-53) on my 42 Merc engine. It seems that in the case of Kube, the later setup has been in the car for many years - without any issues.

From a clutch and clutch-disc perspective, I can't see an issue. Whether it is a Borg and Beck clutch plate or a Ford Long plate really shouldn't make any difference. They both do the same thing and the throw-out bearing actuates them in the same manner.
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I very much appreciate your advice as well as the advice from others.
I won't be able to inspect this vehicle until this evening. I am very eager to look at it once again and eventually figure out exactly what I have here to work with.

Thanks guys....
 
This is the place for clutch work.

https://kyclutch.com/

Fast, friendly, knowledgeable. They turned around a 41 Cadillac rebuild and balance in 2 days, $140, yeah shipping is $50 each way, but still 1/2 what others quote. The job was perfect, it never did better.
 
theHIGHLANDER said:
This is the place for clutch work.

https://kyclutch.com/

Fast, friendly, knowledgeable. They turned around a 41 Cadillac rebuild and balance in 2 days, $140, yeah shipping is $50 each way, but still 1/2 what others quote. The job was perfect, it never did better.
Click to expand...
kentucky-clutch-exterior-with-dog.jpg




Address
KY Clutch and Performance, Inc.
250 Gun Club Road
Brooks, KY 40109 (502) 955-9173

Hours of operation
Monday-Friday: 7:30AM – 5:00PM (EDT)
Saturday: 9:00AM – 12:00PM (EDT)

Payment Methods
We accept VISA and Mastercard

Looking for a clutch kit?
Need a rebuild? You're in the right place.

Whatever you're looking for, we have it in stock.
 
theHIGHLANDER said:
This is the place for clutch work.

https://kyclutch.com/

Fast, friendly, knowledgeable. They turned around a 41 Cadillac rebuild and balance in 2 days, $140, yeah shipping is $50 each way, but still 1/2 what others quote. The job was perfect, it never did better.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna chance this place per your advice and experience. I'll let everyone know how my experience turns out.

Thanks to all!
 
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